2/21/2016

It Worked! {OOP Vogue 1240}

Pattern:  Vogue 1240 - Out of Print
Sizing: custom
Fabric: bemberg; chiffon
Notions:  three buttons
Instructions: didn't use
Modification: too many---made into a shirt; sized; no invisible zipper; construction
Recommend: I like it!

Vogue 1240 is one of those patterns that ends up in your sewing stash simply because it looks cool.  That's how I came to own it. I never really dreamed of actually sewing the halter dress until one day I came up with the idea to make it into a shirt.  A shirt seemed much more practical and something that could actually be worn on any old day. 

Not knowing how the little transformation would turn out, I used a bunch of inexpensive polyester chiffon and basic bemberg lining.  The pattern calls for over one yard of lining and nearly three yards of chiffon.  I only shortened the dress by ten inches, so the modified pattern needed almost the same amount of material. 


Chiffon is not fun to work with, and I have no idea why I keep buying it.  Well, I know why I bought this one; I like the print.  Cutting the fabric was an adventure. The shirt has three layers: lining, chiffon base, and pleated overlay.  It was slippery and with the number of pieces that needed to be cut I spent a fair amount of time hacking the fabric.  The original pattern staggers the hemline of the overlay so the undershirt peaks out at the hemline.  For this iteration, the chiffon pieces all end at the same point, which was the biggest challenge of making this shirt.  I'm not sure how the hem ended up correctly, but sure enough the three layers turned out alright. 

Actually, I'm not sure how the entire shirt ended up working.  With all the modifications to change the pattern I also had to adjust the sizing by nearly an inch on both sides seams.  In the end, the instructions were abandoned so I could follow the construction in a logical manner in my head and keep the integrity of the fraying fabric. 


The seams were finished with self bias, French seams, or overlock.  As always, a bit of hand sewing was done.  For the hemlines, a running stitch conceals the serged edge.  Bias tape is stitched by hand on the inside of the lining; as well as hand-stitching the collar under-stitching. 


The collar is by far my favorite part of this shirt.  I like the height, the feel of the fabric, and the three little buttons to one side.  The original pattern calls for an invisible zipper along the side seam, but the arm opening is large enough for putting it on and off. 

I am really happy with this little top.  It ended up being better than I imagined, and while a challenge, fun.  Even though the pattern was transformed, I recommend adding this out of print design to your collection.  After my experience, I believe it can be dressed up or down.  One of the recommended fabrics is jersey, and I think you can find success if you ignore the middle layer; same recommendation would be given for working with rayon. 

11/03/2015

Wardrobe Staple {Vogue 9062}

Pattern:  Vogue 9062
Version:  B - the dress
Sizing:  12 to 14
Fabric:  ponte
Notions: button
Instructions:  just fine
Modification:  no sleeve flounce; no lining; fold-over hems; bias neck
Recommend:  five stars

Some dresses deserve to be remade, and Vogue 9062 is simply that dress.  My first dress was made in a blue and white strip ponte that is so comfortable and easy-going.  After wearing it just once, I knew a plain black version would be a wardrobe staple for every occasion (including wearing underneath my Day of the Dead apron).  I made the dress in the same manner as the first; there are no flounces for the sleeve, no lining, a bias finished neckline, and fold-over hems. 

10/31/2015

No Fuss Costume {McCall's 6811}

Pattern:  McCall's 6811
Version:  A - the apron
Sizing:  medium
Fabric:  about 1.5 yards of quilting cotton in black and sugar skull print
Notions:  velvet ribbon; 1.5 yards pom-pom fringe
Instructions:  pretty nice
Modification:  fabric selection; embellishment
Recommend:  yes

As Halloween rolled around this year, I was perplexed on what to do.  At the time there was no plan to attend a big costume affair, and already having a few backup Halloween costumes, there was absolutely no need to whip-up something new.  How could I let the holiday pass without making something for it though?  So, I thought, "Why not a costume a person could wear to work?"  Something that was festive, but still  office appropriate.  McCall's 6811 fit the bill with an apron that could be put-on and taken-off without the disruption of changing clothes or putting on make-up. 

The pattern calls for three contrasting fabrics, which looks great.  When I was at the fabric store though, I had to have this sugar skull print and decided to pair it with a plain black skirt.  With all the ruffles, semi-circle skirt, and the skirt overlay, the design takes a bit of fabric.  It is worth it though.  I followed the direction, and in return came out with the perfect work costume and something to celebrate the Day of the Dead as a bonus. 


As soon as I thought I was squared away with 2015 Halloween/Day of the Dead attire, an invitation came for a grown-up costume party.  As I said, I have a few costumes already made and decided to wear the Alice in Wonderland I made back in 2013.  I soon found out that the apron was missing though.  Since McCall's 6811 was already in the sewing room, I set about, as fast as possible, to make a white replacement apron.  This version was made from a thin shirting in a single print with the ruffles removed.  I also decided to loop the neck straps around lengthened waist ties to remove the need for a neck bow. The project still took me about two hours to make, but it was easy and I like this look better than the original.  I shortened the apron skirt by two inches, but I ended up taking the hem out of the dress so the blue contrast showed. 



As the trick-or-treat marathon begins, I send you a Hallows Eve greeting full of stitches, batting, and notions.  

10/20/2015

Outside My Norm {Vogue 8241}

Pattern:  Vogue 8241 - out of print 
Version:  B - the long dress
Sizing:  16
Fabric:  rayon; bemberg
Notions:  button
Instructions:  so very simple and straightforward
Modification: lining to bodice only
Recommend:  yes

Ever been in a mood for something different than your norm? I picked up Vogue 8241in one of those moments. After finishing a shirt from Simplicity 1430, there was plenty of leftover fabric to make a light-weight summer dress and I settled on Vogue 8241. Taking a pattern that is outside my fashion comfort zone seemed like a good decision since I already had success with the shirt and was ok loosing the fabric to a rogue sewing experience.

10/15/2015

Long Sleeve Dress {Vogue 8886}

Pattern:  Vogue 8886
Version:  B with 3/4 sleeves
Sizing:  12 to 14 with additional tailoring
Fabric:  tropical wool; charmeuse
Notions:  horse-hair canvas; interfacing; invisible zipper; 2-hock and eyes
Instructions:  very nice
Modification:  added additional facing within collar
Recommend:  yes

If you have this pattern in your stash, please keep it; it is comfortable and classy.  I have made this dress before in a cap sleeve, unlined version perfect for summer.  This iteration, is fully lined in charming charmeuse with sleeves that hit mid-forearm.  For the fabric, a suiting similar in weight to the tropical wool was selected.  This fabric has a small houndstooth print that needed a bit of pattern matching and reinforcement at the seams.