11/16/2012

Linen Jacket by Me {Vogue 8754}

Pattern: Vogue 8754
Version:  View B with inseam pockets
Sizing:  10 to 12  (bust ease 38", hip ease 42.5", waist 37")
Fabric:  linen look-alike (polyester/cotton/linen); cotton
Notions:  twine, 1" covered buttons; ribbon; light and heavy weight interfacing
Assembly time: 10 hrs
Instructions: as best as can be
Modification:  previously no modifications, this time just changes to the lining and techniques used
Recommend: yes


Anthropologie distributed this cute linen coat last spring (2012). While I fell in love with the design, I did not like the price, the sewing/fabric/construction, or the embroidery on the bottom. Thus, the Anthro jacket did not end up in my closet. The idea however ended up in my to-do folder. 


Vogue 8754 is one of my all-time favorite designs. It is so easy to make, super comfy, and just the right length to wear with a dress or pants. I have made this jacket at least three times already. I considered retiring the pattern, but when I saw the Anthro button down linen jacket, I knew that I could not retire it just quiet yet.  
 
 
Selecting the type of linen to be used would be a concern though. Pure linen equals pure wrinkles all the time. I have opted for a linen look alike that is considered "suiting" made of mostly polyester, a bit of cotton, and a very small amount of linen.
 
 
 
Making the same garment over and over again can be a little, well...boring. So, I changed this jacket up by making a fun lining from 100% cotton polka dots. The pattern instructs that the front pieces be cut twice from the main fabric; one for lining and one for the outer layer. I decided to, instead, split the lining sections so only a small amount was the linen. The interfacing section was a good guide for cutting the self-faced section out of the complete panel piece, just remember to add a seam allowance. In between the lining and the linen, I added grosgrain ribbon.

From what I understand, most people have issues with sleeves. Honestly, I'm not frightened by them. I take my time, use all the pins in the world, and if need be, baste in place and test. For this material, I thought it was necessary to reinforce the seam, so I ironed on a piece of light-weight interfacing that extends a little over the allowance to the shoulder. The bonus of doing it this way also provided a little lift to the gathers without a shoulder pad.

In addition to interfacing the shoulder, I also used light-weight interfacing covered in fabric for the rear panel. I did this because the fabric is "slouchy" and it was necessary to stabilize it so it would hang straight. Heavy-weight interfacing was used for the collar and button holes. If I could reverse time, I would have done a double interfacing for the collar. 
 
 
Since the outside was beginning to look a bit plain compared to the jazzy inside, I decided to add piping around the edges.  The piping is very small.  I used kitchen trussing twine and a invisible zipper foot to constructed it out of a 1.5" bias cut linen.  After I had the yards of piping needed, I basted the tape into place around the entire coat and collar before the lining was set into place. 
 
For a while, I could not decide which buttons to use. I thought fun plastic ones would be nice, but then when my Make it Mine inspiration board popped up the other day, I remembered what my inspiration was and came to the conclusion that covered buttons were the way to go. I am so glad that I made this decision because it saved so much money. Big buttons are expensive and I had none in my stash that were suitable. 

Notice the buttonholes. I tried a new to me technique. I love the way it turned out on the outside, but I still need to hone my skills on the inside. It would have helped if I had decided to use tailored holes before completing the jacket. 
 
 
 
Piping was used around the cuffs---which is one of my favorite points on the jacket. I always have problems joining the lining to the main coat though. The pattern calls for sewing the lining completely to the jacket facing, but each time I have made the coat I have had issues with it puckering at the hemline. My advice is to figure-out some way of detaching the two. I have yet to fix this problem. Other then that small little problem, I love this pattern and would definitely tell anyone who will listen to make it.

 

4 comments:

  1. I know it's been awhile since you posted this, but I just want to tell you that your coat is gorgeous! And all the construction information you have included is so helpful. Thanks for sharing!

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  2. Anonymous4/17/2014

    I really appreciate the time you have taken to illustrate what you did. Your review clenched it for me: I could only get the pattern on ebay, my first purchase there. I plan to make my coat out of an old muted dark red cotton velvet curtain. I will use quite a bit of horse hair interfacing to make the heavier fabric not fall too flat and interface the hems as well. You are an inspiration!

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  3. Your comment has made my day and I appreciate every word.

    While I was looking over the new Vogue patterns the other day, I noticed that 8754 fell into the out of print category. I am actually surprised that it made it this long in the catalogue---the pattern illustrations, in my opinion, didn't show the possibilities of this jacket and age the poor thing in the most unflattering way. Speaking of possibilities, a red velveteen version would be SO wonderful, I can picture it in my head and I WANT IT!!! Smart idea adding horsehair to the jacket itself; I would also add extra (or heavier duty) to the collar since you'll have weight to contend with there. EBay's not that scary, but if you have problems getting the pattern, let me know. I'll send you mine; even though it is a bit used, it's still useable and I've transferred my fitting to un-fusible interface. Best of luck and please try to remember to share your creation with me. I would love a link or picture. Sara

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  4. May I ask, what was the new bound buttonhole technique? They look very nice!

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