Long Sleeve Dress {Vogue 8886}

Pattern:  Vogue 8886
Version:  B with 3/4 sleeves
Sizing:  12 to 14 with additional tailoring
Fabric:  tropical wool; charmeuse
Notions:  horse-hair canvas; interfacing; invisible zipper; 2-hock and eyes
Instructions:  very nice
Modification:  added additional facing within collar
Recommend:  yes

If you have this pattern in your stash, please keep it; it is comfortable and classy.  I have made this dress before in a cap sleeve, unlined version perfect for summer.  This iteration, is fully lined in charming charmeuse with sleeves that hit mid-forearm.  For the fabric, a suiting similar in weight to the tropical wool was selected.  This fabric has a small houndstooth print that needed a bit of pattern matching and reinforcement at the seams. 




Since I have made this dress before, it went together very easily.  The biggest difference between the two makes is the lining.  I chose to completely line this version.  The lining pattern is the same as the outer-fabric.  I completely stitched both sets before attaching at the neckline.  The lining is hand-stitched in place at the zipper too, but otherwise floats freely.

Unlike the cap sleeves on the summer dress, the longer sleeve length required a little less fuss. After the sleeve was set and ironed in, the sleeve head lays flat.  On the dressform, there appears to be extra fabric at the shoulder/collar bone, but in real-life disappears.  The collar sits further from the neck then most other dresses which is the nature of a bateau collar.

For the bateau to lay correctly, I selected horse-hair canvas along with interfacing.  The interfacing was applied to both section of the collar, then the horse-hair canvas was tacked to the fusible facing.  Let me tell you, the horse-hair canvas improves the lay of this collar above the canvas I previously used.  A bit more expensive (ok, a lot more expensive), it is worth the extra effort.  If you have the opportunity, invest in a piece just so you have the option.

 

After completing the dress, I had horrible wrinkles along the princess seam busts.  I tried to ease the fabric out, but that was fruitless.  Instead, I ended up taking seam-binding and reinforcing the length of the bust curve.  Supporting the stitch-line, mostly eliminated the rifts. 

Like I said, if you have this pattern, keep it.  I would like to try the pant version that I mimicked in my muslin, and even a plain white top would be handy to wear with straight skirts.