Version: B with 3/4 sleeves
Sizing: 12 to 14 with additional tailoring
Fabric: tropical wool; charmeuse
Notions: horse-hair canvas; interfacing; invisible zipper; 2-hock and eyes
Instructions: very nice
Modification: added additional facing within collar
If you have this pattern in your stash, please keep it; it is comfortable and classy. I have made this dress before in a cap sleeve, unlined version perfect for summer. This iteration, is fully lined in charming charmeuse with sleeves that hit mid-forearm. For the fabric, a suiting similar in weight to the tropical wool was selected. This fabric has a small houndstooth print that needed a bit of pattern matching and reinforcement at the seams.
Since I have made this dress before, it went together very easily. The biggest difference between the two makes is the lining. I chose to completely line this version. The lining pattern is the same as the outer-fabric. I completely stitched both sets before attaching at the neckline. The lining is hand-stitched in place at the zipper too, but otherwise floats freely.
Unlike the cap sleeves on the summer dress, the longer sleeve length required a little less fuss. After the sleeve was set and ironed in, the sleeve head lays flat. On the dressform, there appears to be extra fabric at the shoulder/collar bone, but in real-life disappears. The collar sits further from the neck then most other dresses which is the nature of a bateau collar.
For the bateau to lay correctly, I selected horse-hair canvas along with interfacing. The interfacing was applied to both section of the collar, then the horse-hair canvas was tacked to the fusible facing. Let me tell you, the horse-hair canvas improves the lay of this collar above the canvas I previously used. A bit more expensive (ok, a lot more expensive), it is worth the extra effort. If you have the opportunity, invest in a piece just so you have the option.
After completing the dress, I had horrible wrinkles along the princess seam busts. I tried to ease the fabric out, but that was fruitless. Instead, I ended up taking seam-binding and reinforcing the length of the bust curve. Supporting the stitch-line, mostly eliminated the rifts.
Like I said, if you have this pattern, keep it. I would like to try the pant version that I mimicked in my muslin, and even a plain white top would be handy to wear with straight skirts.