The Pants {Simpicity 1430}

Pattern:  Simplicity 1430
Version:  C - the pants
Sizing:  16 (hip ease 44")
Fabric:  cotton brocade
Notions:  zipper; button
Assembly time:  4 hrs
Instructions:  gr888t since this is the forth pair
Modification:  did not turn under inside facing
Recommend:  yes

This summer, I was so excited to make three pairs of shorts (Shorts, Shorts, Shorts) that fit exactly like I wish every pair of bottoms would wear.  With that enthusiasm, I set out to test if the same luck would hold true for creating the pant version that is also included in Simplicity 1430.  Low and behold, the fit is spot-on when compared, and just as easy to assemble.

1) pant front; 2) pant rear

Again, I followed the directions step-by-step to ensure the fly front would indeed be near-perfect.  During the process though, I came to the realization that one step seemed out of place.  Before attaching the pockets, the directions entail stitching a small section of the front crotch seams together.  It seems to me that sewing the pocket facing (piece 9) and yoke/pocket (piece 10) to each leg before stitching the front seam would be much easier on the fabric.  So, I recommend completing the steps in the following order: 1 through 3, followed by 5 though 9, then 4, and 10 to the end.

1) rear dart; 2) front pocket

The previous three shorts were made with a fabric that had a small amount of stretch.  After wearing for a few hours, the shorts began to grow like a fungus in a petrie dish.  I ended-up taking the waist band in by two inches, but avoided the same alteration to the current pants.  The cotton brocade has NO stretch, so my hope is that the shape will hold all day. 



waist seams

 

Since I made no alterations to Simplicity 1430, these pictures show a exact replica of the pattern as drafted.  My rough measurements are 30 at the natural waist and 41 at the widest hip point.  I selected the pattern size 16, which has a hip ease of 44 inches.  In the future, I may go down a size EXCEPT for this make, I felt the thick fabric would be better for a larger sizing. 

1) front fly; 2) zipper opening

 

I love the shorts and pants so much from this pattern that I bought two more copies to have on hand; more than likely the pattern will be transferred to a non-fusible facing to preserve it long-term too.  From the two extra copies I will cut one at a size 14 and the other as a size 16.  This way, I can pick and choose based on fabric and whether I want a tighter fit or not. 

front waist seams

The brocade for these pants is thick.  To reduce the bulk around the waist, the inside was not folded onto itself, and instead, was bound and stitched along the front waist seam.  This method creates a flatter waist band, and is easier since the facing is secured in place without folding onto itself. 

rear waist seams

Besides loving the pattern, I am a huge fan of the feel of the cotton brocade.  It is soft and luxurious and the black and blue color is a lovely combo.  With that said, wasting what was left after making these pants was not an options and so....wait until next week to see what was done with the just a half-yard.