2/05/2015

It's Like Butter {Simplicity 1650}

Pattern: Simplicity 1650
Version: A with straight skirt and no sleeves
Sizing: 14 to 16 in hips
Fabric: crepe; bemberg
Notions: invisible zipper; hem tape
Instructions: good
Modification: binding for the armholes; so much hand-stitching; reinforced zipper
Recommend: yes, and I will make again

I’m not sure what attracted me to this pattern, other than a sale. Same goes for the fabric. While, I believe, neither a peplum nor bright yellow are attractive to/on me, give me a 99 cent pattern and fabric for three dollars a yard and I suppose you can call me a sucker. Figuring I had nothing to lose, combining Simplicity 1650 and this buttery crepe seemed like a good option. As you can see, my plan worked, which is a big shock to me since I originally thought the project would be a disaster. I have even grown attached to the yellow fabric. It is soft and fluid; a bit different than any other crepe I have worked with because of the drape.



Construction was a breeze. The peplum was nixed for the straight skirt version with no sleeves. I cut a size 14 for the bust and graded out to a 16 at the hips. Even with this this slight modification, the princess seams matched perfectly. I have no complaints about the pattern.  As a basic sheath dress, this one will be kept as my go to pattern. I like it even better than Vogue 8677, which I made my Blue Conservative and a seersucker dress from, because of the bust seams and kick pleat.


I used binding around the arm holes and hand-stitched them onto the lining, which is not a method included in the pattern.  The zipper was finished off by hand sewing the lining around the zipper tape with tiny whip-stitches.  The hem was also finished by hand.  Belt loops were hand-stitched at the waist line to hold the accessory in place.  All this handwork came out nicely.  I was able to practice controlling the slippery bemberg used for the lining, and it prepared me for my next project---a pure silk dress.


I always use polyester thread.  I know there are specific threads for specific tasks, but I am not inclined to put the effort forth to use the right tool for the right job.  However, it was discovered after testing my silk fabric, the polyester thread stood out.  The other day, I had brief conversation about embroidery machine thread, it popped into my head that a silky thread might work nicely and complement the drape of the silk fabric.  So, I used the bemberg lining of this dress to practice stitching with the rayon.  It worked marvelous.  With a sharp needle, I can make tiny stitched that suit my fancy.  It may just become a must have tool for all my hand sewing from here-on-out. 



Let me just say this.  HANDSEWING IS NOT NECESSARY FOR MAKING THIS DRESS!  If I had machine stitched everything, the dress could have been completed in less than six hours.  I suspect it would have turned-out just as nice too. Defiantly this pattern will be repeated. I am very curious to see how well the sleeves are drafted and hope they are as well positioned as the dress base.

5 comments:

  1. This looks so neat, and very spring-like. I also use all purpose thread for everything...sewing has so many little tricks and it takes some time to learn them all.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Tell me about it! It seems I do it one way, only to discover a different way the next time I make the exact same thing. I think that is why sewing keeps my attention...it's about the journey and learning.

      Definitely try the rayon thread out if you are into hand sewing silky material. It's not as strong and will break with tension. My main machine is a work horse (a Singer), so I switched to an old gentle giant (Viking). It passed through this machine with ease.

      Best stitches and happy spring.

      Delete
  2. I love the dress. The colour and fit are fabulous. I may have to pull this pattern out of my stash and take a closer look. Thank you for the tip on using rayon thread. I tend to use all purpose simply because I have loads of it. Great job as always.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. This pattern was truly a shock to me. I really did not think I would like it. I thought that a "Project Runway" pattern was marketed to make the company money and would be a mess to make. Ha. I was wrong. It's a beaut and great fit for me.

      Besides the pattern, which I recommend making, try rayon thread for the slippery fabric. Wow. I could not believe the control that came with switching from the polyester on the bemberg. The hand stitches are so well hidden that it was hard to take pictures of the work. My next project/post is a pure silk dress. The thread worked so well that I may send it a Valentine's Day card.

      Happy Heart Day.

      Delete
  3. I love how your dress turned out. I just bought it on eBay so I can try it out myself. I've been looking for a timeless style that would work for wool double crepe and/or the washable crepe hybrid that Emma One Sock carries. I've been wanting to try both fabrics in the same dress so I can compare. This is the dress pattern I'm going to use.

    Thank you for your detailed reviews; they are very helpful.

    ReplyDelete