Vintage Inspired Coat {Butterick 5952}

Pattern:  Butterick 5952
Version:  A - the jacket
Sizing:  14
Fabric:  Carolina Herrera stuff; flannel; acetate lining
Notions:  large snaps; interfacing; cotton lace
Assembly time:  3 months give or take
Instructions:  the project took so long that I gave up on them
Modification:  extra interlining and interfacing, sleeve head; pleat reposition
Recommend:  it's easy, but probably not because of the collar

Three months ago, when Christmas and New Year seemed a far off date, I set about making plans for my holiday project.  Inspiration came from a vintage card that featured a smartly dressed women in a pale blue jacket.

Butterick 5952.  I had high hopes for it.  I forced myself to see past the shinny polyester used on the overcoat on the pattern front.  I squinted so the fitting issues disappeared on all the pictures posted on the Butterick website.  And instead, I fell for the lovely line drawings on the back of the envelope.  The sketches seemed like a  match for recreating my inspiration. 




1) front; 2) back

When the fabric arrived, I was put into a happy mood until I touched the poor stuff.  While the color is great, the feel is horrible.  The only concept that I can think to describe it is a 1970s couch that is beginning to breakdown from sun exposure.  The fiber, which is so thin that it was interfaced on the bolt, was so coarse that I automatically threw it in the washer on the heavy-duty setting to loosen the weave.  Good news, the fabric is washable and the process worked a bit.

1) shoulder; 2) snaps; 3) collar

The fabric texture is still a disappointment to me, and may be why the project took so long to make.  Several times I nearly bailed on making the coat, BUT I really wanted to try my hand at recreating my inspiration.  I finally finished the project just in time to mark the new year, though I have forgotten most of the details on the constructions.  Along the way, I also gave up on the instructions because at some point I lost track of the steps.   The jacket is super easy to make even though I had to compensate for poor fabric quality by adding additional facings. 

1) inside hem; 2) inside rear vent; 3) inside collar; 4) lining, interlining, and hem

The jacket was completely interlined and lined because the fabric is completely translucent.  I used flannel for the interlining to add warmth and aid the drape.  The back yoke interlining was basted to interfacing; as well as the collar begin interfaced and interlined.  Despite me thinking I could overcome the collar droopiness presented on the envelope picture; the pattern is what it is and droopiness was unavoidable. For the closures, large snaps were covered and used.

1) lining side; 2) lining back

While the coat turned out similar to what I pictured, it leaves me disappointed.  I know, I know...there is no fur collar or cuffs---but I have a fur project in the works so I skipped the fur here.  I will never sew the jacket again because of the collar.  However, the dress is cut and I hope to have it done as my first make of 2015.



1) collar interfacing, interlining, and basting; 2) sleeve inside; 3) collar inside

 

And with that said,

 

I send the warmest wishes to you this new year.  Happy New Year's!