Fast and Easy Turned Slow Sew {Butterick 4386}

Pattern:  Butterick 4386
Version:  C - elbow length sleeves without sash
Sizing:  12 to 14 with one extra inch per side
Fabric:  twill; nylon lining
Notions:  invisible zipper; hem tape; interfacing
Instructions:  very easy to understand
Modification:  reduced the length of sleeve and dress; added lining; used invisible zipper
Recommend:  yes. simple. easy. versatile.

I set out to challenge myself this week.  Lately, I have been taking on projects and complicating the task by adding steps to improve the construction.  While this is great that I am branching out to incorporate new skills, it certainly means a greater amount of time is spent sewing a single garment.  So, the challenge:  do a fast and easy dress.  Here's a little foreshadowing though...I failed.
 

I ordered this charming twill fabric with bright colored flowers with the intent to make breaches.  However when it arrived, I knew it was meant for a dress.  I have a small stack of patterns that has not been earmarked for a project and in it was Butterick 4386. This pattern is perfect for the print, and as a self-proclaimed "fast and easy" pattern, it fit the initial goal.

I quickly cut the seven pieces out of the 1.5 yards of fabric, sizing the cut based on my measurements and ease amount.  I cut the bodice at a size 12 and widened through the hips to a size 14 plus one inch per side seam.  The sleeve length was reduced by about two inches and the mid-hemline marking was selected.  Additional shaping of the dress comes from the six darts.  Even with all the darts the shell came together within an hour.  

Along the way, I discovered that the dress was coming along way better than I could dream.  I tried to resist adding a full lining.  I really tried to avoid the call to add a sleeve head.  I tried to refrain from installing an invisible zipper.  I even tried to refrain hem tape and hand tacking. In the end the fast and easy dress, while easy to constructed, became yet another slow sew. 

A partial lining was added for two reasons: to cover the seams and prevent cling.  A pink nylon crinkle fabric was cut out for the two body pieces with the dart lines followed to copy the shape of the dress.  The sleeves were left unlined, mainly because fit is tight but also because the fabric yardage ran out.  I even had to piece together one section to have enough for the dress body.  Some may think it odd, and cheap, that I would take this shortcut; however, I really wanted to avoid having extra pink lining to store just for something no one will ever notice in real life.  Can you even see it in the pictures?

Extra time was spent to use the included facings because it means the bright lining is not visible at the neckline.  The facings were placed on-top of the lining, matching the shape, and sewn in place.  Hem tape binds the edging of both the facing and armholes. 

Hem tape also finishes the hem, including the rear split.  To make the hem stitches invisible, light-weight interfacing was fused at the turnover, then the hem was turned, and secured with a slip stitch. The split at the hem is very easy, since a larger seam allowance is simply folded-over.

I spent a bit of time setting the sleeves, even including a sleeve head to ensure a pucker free smooth finish.  Despite this extra step, it came together nicely.  One thing I must warn you about, the sleeves are drafted narrow.  If you think you have fat arms (even if you really don't)----make adjustments!  I made no modifications, and my movement is restricted at the elbow.

All the while I was sewing this pattern, I thought to myself that it would be a good candidate for make many multiples, particularly for the office-bound person needing/wanting to wear a simple basic wardrobe day after day---sort of a work uniform.  There are a number versions included within the pattern, but the basic shape can be enhanced by fabric choice.  All a person would need to do is fit the dress once and within a couple of hours a new dress could be created time and time again.  Will, I make another?  I would like to yell, "YES"; however, I am hesitant since the pattern is so basic that nothing really sticks out to make it special.  Yes, it is easy.  Yes, it is simple.  And, yes, it could be versatile depending on your tastes.