This is Why I Sew {Simplicity 1419}

Pattern: Simplicity 1419
Version: B - the dress without sleeves nor collar
Sizing: 12 to 14
Fabric: cotton/polyester mix; cotton sheeting
Notions: invisible zipper; small button; cotton lace; yarn for piping
Instructions: skipped the directions
Modification: lining; piping; bound and trimmed hems; bias neck
Recommend: yes

What are you most comfortable wearing? Jeans and a t- shirt? Shorts and a tank? Pants...definitely make me uncomfortable. Instead, on most days you will find me in a dress. Watching television, I'm wearing a dress. Gardening, most of the time I'm wearing a dress. Working, I most certainly am in a dress. I know most people find this strange, but I don't mind. Dresses are just more comfortable, especially when you can have a custom fit. Hence, that's why I love sewing.

 

Simplicity 1419 is everything I enjoy wearing in a dress. The bodice, while fitted, is not restrictive. The waist is barely cinched, and the skirt is loose. All this was achieved pretty much out of the envelope. The bodice was cut at a 12 and tapered to a 14 at the waist seam.

Since sewing is completely customizable, I did expand on garment construction. For starters, I decided to line the entire dress. My fabric is a cotton polyester mix with a fair amount of stretch. The lining is a old Ikea cotton sheet, which was specifically chosen because it has no give in any crossway. This, by theory, should stabilize the outer fabric, preventing stretch in the fitted bodice. The sheeting also supports the skirt pleats, making it have more body. The lining was constructed from the exact pieces as the outer dress, since no instructions or pattern pieces are included.

When it came time to pick the version of the dress, I opt for the no collar view, but wanted to add a bit of detail. Piping is a favorite embellishment of mine, so it was used. I thought it would be a nice way to break up the gingham print, especially if the lines were mismatched. The neck, arms and waist seams easily took the finish edging, especially with a little hands sewing here and there.

I started by applying a small section of handmade piping (here's a little insight on how I make it) to the key hole on the lining side of the front bodice. I found this easy with the help of the guide traced from the pattern. After I had sewn the lining section, I carefully attached the lining to the gingham.

After the gap was finished, another section of piping was installed around the neck through both the gingham and lining. The seam allowance from the piping was flipped to encase the raw edges. It may seem like a bit of work, but providence was on my side and things worked wonderfully.

While the piping is an excellent enhancement for the world to see, my favorite is the skirt lining hem. Cotton lace adds a special touch to the seam edge. I honestly love finishing hems this way. (I finished a winter coat lining this way too.) It's easy to do with an over-locked straight edge and a zigzag stitch to attach the frill. The bound hem for the gingham is sweet too.

This dress was a dream to make. I had no problems whatsoever, even when matching most of the plaid crossings. I did forget to match a couple of sections, but by the time I noticed it to was too late and the lines where close enough...like the waist.

The center back is a bit wobbly, but the pattern is drafted with a slight curve so the straight line of the material should naturally be skewed in order to take advantage of fit.

In a heartbeat I would recommend this pattern. Without the lining and piping, it could be a relatively fast sew that produces the same results as mine...or close enough. Of course, it's all in the details and my extra steps make this dress the reason I sew..details and fit.