Matching the Inspiration Coat {Butterick 5952}

Pattern: Butterick 5952
Version: B – the dress
Sizing: 14
Fabric: Carolina Herrera stuff; satin
Notions: invisible zipper; lace hem tape
Instructions: read through, but went my own way because of the fabric
Modification: sewing order
Recommend: surprisingly yes

At the end of last year, I committed myself to completing a dress to accompany my Vintage Inspired Coat {Butterick 5952} despite having a poor attitude to creating something from a fabric that I despised. The fabric, though a beautiful color, is translucent, interface on one-side, and rough. I pre-washed the yardage prior to beginning both projects to loosen the fabric weave which improved the touch. After MUCH thought, and a trial-and-error phase during the making of the coat, I came to the conclusion that heavy bridal satin was the best bet for avoiding a see-through dress. None of the typical lining materials worked well; some provided no coverage and others made the seam allowance standout more, but the heavy satin blocks the light from coming through.  

the fabric and pre-applied interfacing

Originally, the dress was going to be stitched together treating the satin lining more as an interlining so the raw edges would be seen only on the inside of the dress. However, pinking shears were used to cut the allowance close to the stitch line, so I was able to place the edges between the fabric layers. The sharpness of a straight line is blurred by the zig-zag, disguising the seam. Since the fashion fabric is interfaced, stitching is reinforced so a small seam allowance fine.  

The direction for making this dress were abandoned, because a different construction order was necessary to best hide seams. To start with, the shoulder seams were sewn first, followed by the neck line. The darts were stitched through both layers of fabric, the sea-foam and white, making the dart intake hidden behind the lining. The sleeve hem was put together first and then hand stitched to the bodice lining.

rear waistband and darts

The waist band has a double layer of interfacing fused onto the fashion fabric. To reduce waist bulk, the lining was stitched to one side of the band and then folded down to top-stitching the other side in place. The invisible zipper was a bit tricky because of the fabric girth. Not wanting the zipper tape to be visible, the closure was sewn through both layers of fabric. I then covered the zipper tape with lace hem tape to cover it as well as possible on the inside. Hem tape was also used at the hem.

1) front inside; 2) back inside; 3) zipper close-up

Much to my surprise, I really like this dress. I have always liked the color, and with the satin facing the skin, it is comfortable. The complete ensemble may be a bit much, and honestly enough self-confidence to wear in public may be lacking since it is a bit old fashion to have such a matching outfit. Regardless, the dress pattern is a keeper; the coat version is retired.