Version: closest to A with no sleeves and round neck
Sizing: started with 14 ended with 12
Fabric: cotton brocade
Notions: invisible zipper; self-made bias tape
Instructions: oops, didn't use
Modification: shortened length; no buttons
Recommend: sure
McCall's 2818 is one of the first patterns I purchased when sewing became a focus of this blog. I was attracted to the various versions: the high-split neckline, the scallop edging at the bottom hem, sleeves verse no sleeves, and the princess seams. Recently, a pair of pants from Simplicity 1430 was completed from some very soft cotton brocade fabric---one of my favorite things at the moment. Not wanting to waste one square inch of the material, I pulled McCall's 2818 to make a coordinating top; and luckily, there was just enough fabric left to squeeze the shirt together with some small modifications.
This is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern and is accompanied by extensive direction for fit and finish. I did not read or use the instructions; I really wanted a project that was unencumbered by analytical thought and just wanted to sew. With that said, I originally cut a size 14 with the widest at the hip point. Since my fabric included a texture repeat, the design was matched at the hem-line. In order to fit the length on the ruminate fabric, I reduced the pattern distance by four inches.
The design of this shirt includes workable buttons along the center back; however, I wished for a simple tailored shirt and decided to use an invisible zipper instead of making buttonholes and selecting thick uncomfortable buttons. After making this decision, I stitched the shirt together to discovered it fit poorly---it was a bit too big. So, the front center was reduced by one inch and rear back was taken-in by 1.5 inches.
As for the finish of the shirt, facings are included but ditched because I personally prefer a nice unencumbered bias strip around the neck and arm. The fashion fabric is so thick that it was also inappropriate to use as facing. Since the shirt length was limited by the width of my left-over fabric, I also decided to use binding around the hem.
The two-inch binding was created from tropical wool that was used on my Vogue 8886 project. It is thin, has great stretch along the bias, and is perfect for making smooth curved edging. After folding the bias in half, it was machine stitched to the raw edges, and then (drum roll please) hand sewn all along the finished edge. These tiny little stitches become invisible on both sides of the fabric.
So, what started as a quick simple little project turned out to take a few more hours than anticipated because of all the hand-stitching. I loved every minute though. By learning to neatly and accurately stitch by hand, I think my sewing skill will improve immensely. It really is true that hand sewing allows more control over the fabric placement and drape.
My little shirt turned out better than anticipated. It is a nice transition piece from summer to fall and this winter, I can layer a shirt under the tank. I also think this little number will go nicely with my sequin skirt for this holiday season.
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