Denim Delight {Vogue 1349}

Pattern:  Vogue 1349
Sizing:  12 to 14
Fabric:  2.25 yrds chambray
Notions:  invisible zipper; small button; hook and eye
Assembly time: 12 hrs
Instructions:  well thought out
Modification:  no lining, bound arm and neckline
Recommend:  my favorite dress pattern...for the moment

This post is going to be difficult to write, mainly because I am finding it hard to focus on the dress without screeching like a little girl getting a puppy---I like it that much.  Originally, I had massive amounts of doubt that it would work. Let's face it, Vogue can be fussy, shifts can be shapeless, and not all fabric will work for certain projects. 

I knew I wanted a denim shift dress and went through a number of patterns before I selected Vogue 1349.  This pattern has great features, and the fabric selection on the envelope model is way cool.  So, while I knew I was going to loose some of the details the multiple fabrics gave, I thought the use of a decorative stitch would still highlight the use of different seam elements and differentiate the panels for the dress. 

I took my chances on proceeding through the pattern without doing a muslin; my fabric has a price tag that is very wallet friendly, so if I messed up, no great loss.  The direction for fabric amounts lack a single, non-contrast version.  I based the amount needed for a single fabric print on the recommended lining amount and added a bit more, settling on 2.25 yards.  This provided just enough, but if you want a longer skirt, more will be needed, as there was NO extra.  Cotton fabric, chambray to be exact, is not included in the list of recommended fabric, but actually worked wonderfully for the style of dress I was seeking---simple, light-weight, and ready for summer.

Point blank, I left the lining out.  Didn't want it; didn't use it.  The pattern does include a two piece sewn-in lining that looks as if it will work, but I would not be the person to ask about it.  I finished the arms and neck by using a slim bias strip with a finish size of a quarter inch.  The inside and embellished out are finished using a flat-fell seam. I love this process, and it is used often in denim construction.  Check your jeans out, it's there. 

Flat-fell seams are achieved with a bit of work.  The technique starts with a straightforward seam; otherwise known as, the 5/8 inch allowance stitch.  One side of the seam allowance is then trimmed to an eighth of an inch; the other side is folded in half and pressed flat over the smaller side.   Next, the finish stitches are sewn an eighth and quarter inch from the seam.  A double-needle can be used for the cover-stitch, making the process easier.  The easiest and a sure-fire way towards succeed is to baste the seam allowance down before cover-stitching with the machine.  Basting stitches can be seen in the photos.

The making of this dress was very pleasurable.  I found absolutely no difficulty in any of the steps and am so surprised that a Vogue designer pattern is so agreeable. The sizing for bust, waist, and hip printed on the envelope creates a garment that actually fits like it states.  I used these pattern stats for picking my size.  I did do a hip width adjustment by grading out from a bodice size 12 (34 bust), and the fit is what I wanted to a tee.

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