Pear Shaped Tank {McCall's 1878}

Fabric used:  appliqued sheer cotton for the outer and plain muslin for the lining

Cost: I bought 1 and 3/4 yards of the appliqued fabric (at $13 a yard) and roughly 1 yard for the lining (at .99 cents).  I did spend what I consider a lot for the fabric, but it was all better since it was all 50% off.  The applique fabric is something I have wanted since the fabric store brought it in.  I just couldn’t find what I wanted to make with it since it has a very flouncy body. 

side seam and applique removal

Pattern sizing/alterations:  I cut a size 10 out.  When I buy a store bought shirt I usually select a size 8.  The pattern was somewhat easy to cut out.  It did take me some time since the applique had to be removed where the seams would run over the flowers.  Of course I didn’t have to do this, I just wanted it to look a neat and tidy.  After the shirt was sewn, I tacked the missing flowers back in place.  The technique is particular necessary along the neckline since it has pleats.  If the flowers where there, it would have made unnecessary bulkiness since there are three layers created with pleat formation. 

 

Were the instructions easy to follow?   I was a bit confused at first about what exactly to cut out because I didn’t realize there that was a full lining.  I’m so glad there is a complete lining because I didn’t know what I was going to do since a partial lining would have been extremely noticeable.  It also need a full lining for the structure of the shirt.

 

four sections ready for assembly

The pattern suggests that an interfacing be installed.  I opted out of this since I wanted a comfortable summer shirt that maintained the fabrics sheerness.  The cotton fabric has enough structure that it isn’t truly necessary.  After the shirt was completed, I am so glad that my logic proved right.  Not only is the double thickness enough, the underlining of the shirt is extremely tight.  If I would have added the interfacing the shirt would not have fit.  Do not be deceived by the shirt volume.  It in no way corresponds with the fit.  In hindsight, I would have cut a size 12.  Word to the wise, make the underlining first and test this for fit, making adjustment there.  I had to alter the placement of the lining bust seam because it was totally seeable through the shirt, not to mention uncomfortable.

basting pleats before sewing together

The directions are a bit strange as they call for putting two rows of basting stitches for the hem.  Good technique, but really a bit much for this shirt. 

rear view; notice the lining seam placement

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  While I can deal with the excess of volume, the neckline has issues.  The pleats and fabric from the ballooned hem have weight, which pulls the top exposing the lining.   I’ve tacked the lining to the shirt facing, so I hope this helps. 

 

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope?  Sure enough, the shirt looks like the pattern cover.

Would you sew it again?  I will not be sewing this shirt again.  While the design is unique, there isn’t a whole lot of different looks I can make from it.  One is enough.

side view and pocket

 

Would you recommend it to others?  I can’t say I would recommend this pattern, but it isn’t because the pattern is bad.  It just doesn’t speak to me.  There should be a tank out there that is much more flattering to everyone.  For me, it balloons in a place that is already poofy enough. 

Conclusion:  While the fabric choice was good, I’m a bit sad that I wasted it on this shirt design.  It is not one of my favorite.