8/10/2012

Color Me Blocked {Vogue 8805}

Block dresses, have you seen one at your favorite clothing store?  Well, they are out here.  This design appeals to me because of the modern fabric piecing, coloring, and the roominess of the dress.  If I haven't sold you on rushing to the store to buy one, there is no need. 

I am so very very excited about Vogue 8805 because it  is absolutely easy to assemble.  There are options for bust size, which help control the box shape that can add a little too much weight onto a body frame, at least for some (me).

I continued my love for sewing with linen for this dress.  I followed the recommended yardage provided on the back of the pattern envelope, which proved to be too much.  If you are like me and tend not to want scrapes of fabric around, measure how long you want each section and only purchase that amount. 


Vogue 8805
I also suggest taking a moment to decided how long each section should be compared to your own body.  Some colors will attract the eye more than others, which you can use to your advantage.  For example, the turquoise tends to draw the eye down while the black camouflages lumps and bumps.  For my version, I shorten the middle section (black) by two inches and the bottom portion (turquoise) by seven inches.

I made these proportion adjustments based on the sketch provided on the pattern cover.  The top (yellow), which I did not alter, stops slightly under the high chest line, the black stops at the top of the thigh, and the bottom  a couple of inches above the knee. 


(a) pattern cut (b) neckline with
bias strip for neckline (c) bottom
hemmed and seams basted

I only spent a moment of time considering colors.  I was very keen on the colors used on the envelope picture.  However, I have been on a yellow kick lately and truth be told, the yellow linen was a much better quality than the white at the store, so I brought it home with me. 

As I mentioned, the pattern gives sizing options beyond the standard 6, 8, 10 by including bust size.  I chose a dress size 10 with a C bust for the top portion and tapered to a size 12 in the hips.  I probably could have gone smaller on the top, but chose the size based on ease measurements printed on the pattern.  Next time I use this pattern I will calculate my own ease and adjust accordingly.   

Piecing the block sections together could not be easier.  I did follow the directions, but this was unnecessary.  As I was sewing though, I notice a problem with fraying and immediately knew I wanted to finish the inside as nicely as the out.  Therefore, I folded the seam allowance under and top stitched each side of the seam. 


inside with basted seams

In order to make sure I was catching the seam allowance, I basted every seam into place. Yes, that is a lot of work, but it ensures the seam lays flat when feeding it though the machine and I can sew on the outside of the dress where it matters the most. In the past, I pinned the seam down and top stitch on the inside of the garment.  I was always frustrated with this method because I usually had wobbly seams with buckles and was always fusing with the straight pins.  Basting, though time consuming, is, believe it or not, easier.  Love the technique. 

The only deviation from the instructions that I made was utilizing a bias strip to finish the neckline.  I cut the yellow linen into a one inch strip, used a 1/4 inch seam allowance, encased the raw edge within the bias strip, and top stitched in place.  The other hems, arms and skirt bottom, where finished by serging, rolling the sergered edge, and finishing with a top stitch.


basting bias strip for neckline

I do love this dress and recommend anyone contemplating the pattern to try it out.  It is very simple; probably only taking three hours to complete.  My version was a bit more complicated and time consuming because of my finishing technique which was only a personal choice.  The dress can be made very economically too, so if you are dissatisfied with the outcome it can be neglected.  Trust me though, I think you will enjoy the experience and outcome. 


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