One Month, One Pattern Inauguration 2015 {Grainline Archer}

Reaching into your closet, do you select handmade clothes or is it easier to dress in factory made garments? I would like to say that nearly everything I wear is custom made, but that is far from the truth. I do wear what I make, but surprisingly have very few pieces to accommodate an everyday outfit. Two years ago, I began the series One Month, One Pattern to aid in creating a larger wardrobe. The concept is about using one pattern and producing as many quality pieces possible in one month. At first, it may seem like a bore to make the same thing over-and-over again, however, focusing on one pattern enables fitting issues to be resolved before starting the next version, creativity to be used to create different looking pieces, and mastering techniques.



OMOP 2013

This year, I have decided to tackle a more complicated pattern that will take more time, more fabric, and more creativity to create unique items. Lately, I have been spend a lot of time horseback riding. As luck would have it, every single lessons seems to take place during the hottest part of the day in the brightest sun. Therefore, I would prefer to wear long sleeve, light weight shirts to keep the rays off my skin but have found them difficult to find in the summer especially without spending a fortune.



OMOP 2014

So, I might have spent a small fortune on the fabrics for these projects, but not nearly as much as a ready to wear version I recently purchased. The pattern is also fairly expensive since it is an indie, but it will be nice to discover and use a new/different pattern company. This pattern has been widely admired on the sewing blog front, which means every issue (hopefully) has been addressed somewhere on the worldwide web. Based on the reviews, I have purchased lawn and shirting in various colors, and I have been collecting buttons for the last couple of months. So with much ado, my One Month One Pattern 2015 pattern selection is Grainline Studio’s Archer Button Up Shirt. I am really excited to start this year’s One Month, One Pattern series.

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Here's the low down on my the shirts for this series.

Pattern:  Archer Button Up Shirt
Version:  There are many combinations that can be made from this pattern.  The rear has two different cuts:  a skirt and simple pleat.  The collar can be cut into two different ways:  collar and no collar.  The cuffs have two different types:  squared and angled.  The pockets can be added or not.  And I suppose, the sleeve length can be adjusted--full sleeve, 3/4 length, short, or sleeveless. I know that I will only sew long sleeves shirts because of my goal of covering myself as much as possible this summer.  I hate pockets on my chest, so pockets may not make an appearance, but one never knows for certain.
Sizing:  These shirts have a specific purpose:  to protect from the sun and dirt.  I need something that I have complete mobility in and therefore will make loose fitting garments.  The shirt will be graded from a size 10 to 14 through the hips. 
Fabric:  Lawn and cotton shirting have been purchased in 2 to 2.25 yards length.  I avoided hard to match fabrics--like large plaid prints.  The interfacing will either be cotton backed or sheer weight fusible depending on the fabric weight. 
Notions:  Eight to twelve buttons have been found for each shirt. The thought of making this many buttonholes is overwhelming. 
Instructions:  The directions provided with the pattern are fun.  I love that they come in book form and there are large drawings and space between steps.  Better yet, there are many sewalongs, including one from Grainline Studio.

With a firm idea in hand, I set out to accomplish my absolutely wearable first version.  The sizing is perfect for the task.  As far as construction modifications, I decided to try French seams since a couple of the fabrics I selected for One Month, One Pattern are sheer.  Grainline has used a half-inch seam allowance, which makes using quarter-inch seams simple since the overall French seam would take-up a half-inch.  In simple terms, that means the sizing/ease will stay close to true---and it does.  Now let's talk sleeve length; as drafted the length is quiet long, very long on me in fact.  For follow on shirts, the length will be reduced by roughly three-inches.  This is something to keep in mind if you plan on using this pattern.  I recommend measuring your arm length and adjusting accordingly prior to starting your shirt.  Two areas that gave me grief during the construction were the sleeve placket and collar.  Even though the hardcopy instructions are completely acceptable, I located the directions from the sewalongs and things came together much easier.

What makes this particular shirt special to me are the buttons.  This shirting material is a wacky color, something between gray and sage.  The only buttons I could find that matched the color were old ones from my great-grandmothers collection.  I cannot believe they match seamlessly.  I only had eight, so the spacing down the front placket was adjusted.  I was happy that this also meant less buttonholes. 

I am in the process of completing the next version, and things are coming together slowly.  I have a feeling speed is going to be an issue this month.  This shirt does take time to complete, so far the one shirt took about eight hours.  Unfortunately, I may not be able to make as many garments as in years past.  Oh well, this project is going to fill a gap in my wardrobe and give me something I definitely need.