9/17/2012

Tack Marks {stitching tip}


My grandmother started me sewing when I was very young.  I had my first machine when I was 2, and she let me have all the fabric I could ever dream of having---with the one requirement, I could only pick stuff out of the garbage can.  She was a professional seamstress, and though I learned many things from her, I also learned to be a bit lazy.  I take shortcuts when sewing all the time, including transferring the pattern markings to fabric. 

Until recently, I used straight pins to mark my guides and darts.  I've learned this methods is not reliable though; the pins are annoying to deal and often leave their mark on my poor thumb.  Frustrated, I transitioned to tailor's chalk.  Chalk has flaws too.  Sometimes the mark can be large and undefinable as in where exactly to stop/start---an 1/8 inch matters sometimes.  The other flaw with chalk is,  it can leave marks.  For example, on my white dress I used blue chalk that stained the finished garment.


I started cutting McCall's 6565 and came across a dilemma.  I used sheer cotton fabric for this project and did not want to ruin my fabric with blue chalk.  Since I was cutting multiple garments out that day and knew it would be some time before I assembled the shirt; pinning the darts and pleats was not the best idea.  So for the first time in my life, I marked my darts by tacking a piece of thread.  I have to say, I love this method.  It is faster than pinning and more accurate than chalk.  Plus I can leave the guide throughout the project life. 

the bodice dart has been marked with small tailor's marks indicated by arrows in the picture

Tailor's tacking is easy.  Take a double (triple or more depending on the fabrics) piece of thread and stitch directly through the pattern marking into one layer of fabric.  A knot is not necessary as it is easy to pull the pattern piece off if there is no knot.  I cut the thread leaving a small tail.  Use a contrasting color of thread so it is easy to locate. 

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