5/16/2014

From B5997 to S1693 1M1P #4 {Simplicity 1693}

If you have seen my entries for the last couple of weeks, you may be aware that I am on a quest to build an every day wardrobe using one pattern in multiple ways.  Well, this entry continues the theme, but starts off with the making of a totally different pattern, Butterick 5997, that I failed to complete because of a number of misjudgments. 
 
Pattern: Butterick 5997
Version: A - collar band with hem-tabbed sleeves
Sizing: 14
Fabric: silk
Notions:  interfacing; clear elastic (for stabilizing shoulder seam)
Instructions: ok
Recommend: on the fence since I made so many mistakes along the way
 



This unfinished shirt is nothing but a series of mistakes that was scrapped because of my inability to make something that I would actually wear it in public. The muslin that I made prior to cutting this pure silk, indicated that the shirt would be a breeze to put together. Haha, the joke was on me. Here is a list of just a few of the mistakes:
  1. Fabric selection - I reached out of my comfort zone with a boldly patterned print. I thought it was a good idea. It was not. I hate the print for this shirt. Even if I finished the project, I would never wear it because of the fabric.
  2. Fabric quantity - The pattern calls for 2 yards.  I had less than that, so I had to cut creatively.
  3. Fabric stabilizing - Since this is a silk it is slick and it warps something fierce. I did stabilize the ruffles along the collar bone, but every seam needed to be stay-stitched prior to construction.  I recommend stay-stitching the collar before beginning any sewing no matter the fabric you select. The front panel does get a workout when installing the shoulder detail.
  4. Cutting pattern - Miss cut the front panel in a way that made the front hem longer than the back.
  5. Front facing - Facing did not match the assembled shirt. I blame this on me cause there is no explanation.  
I stopped sewing after these mistakes. There was no point in finishing a shirt that I knew was going to sit in the closet for a few months and then work its way to the giveaway bin. Even though at this point in the experience I would fail to give a thumbs up to Butterick 5997 because of not having success, I still would like to give this pattern another try. Maybe in cotton? Chambray might be nice, and it is even recommended on the envelope!

Hold on though, the story continues.....
 
Pattern:  Simplicity 1693
Version:  D - but not really because of the modifications
Sizing:  12
Fabric:  silk from flop; black wool for collar
Notions:  cording; interfacing for collar
Assembly time:  4 hours
Instructions:  forged my own path for this version
Modification:  so many since I was using pieces from an already existing shirt

I simply refuse to waste this fabric.  So, I re-cut it, creatively, to accommodate Simplicity 1693.  This Simplicity pattern is part of series I am doing called One Month, One Pattern in which I am trying to build an every day wardrobe.  Since the shirt body was mostly complete using French seams, I kept most of the shirt sewn together and cut the pattern marks for the neck and arm by placing the pieces on top of the already complete shirt.  For this recreation, the back of the failed Butterick 5997 became the front of Simplicity 1693.

After sewing the shoulder seams, I used the pre-existing sleeves from Butterick 5997 and trimmed to accommodate the armhole of Simplicity 1693.  Simplicity 1693 provides two option for the sleeve, a flutter sleeve or bishop shape sleeve, neither of these could be achieved with the precut Butterick 5997 sleeve, so the sleeve seam was left straight and at the 5997 length.  And while the sleeves are anything from perfect, the marriage of these work well enough. 

 
The collar was cut from a small piece of wool, sewn into place and finished on the inside with 1.5 inch bias tape. For the back neckline, a little creativity was needed.  Since a open neck was called for in Butterick 5997 and I switched the back to the front, my new shirt now had a V-shape at the rear neckline.  This V leaves a gap and a floppy collar; so out of necessity, I plan on taking ribbon to tie the two section together.  (I have gone to the fabric store twice, with list in hand, and still forgot to pick up the ribbon!!)
 
If you remember, I mentioned cutting the hemline of 5997 incorrectly.  Well this mistake works out wonderful for my new shirt.  I love the S curve for the waistline.  This technique is something I would love to keep in mind for other projects. 
 
1) back view with unfinished neck gap; 2) sleeve and S-curved hem; 3) collar
In the end, I would have to say that I like the Simplicity 1693 version much more than Butterick 5997.  And while the fabric is still something a little wild for my taste, I think the collar and simple shirt body helps tame it to the point I MAY actually wear it in public.  At this point, I am considering wearing it underneath my Simplicity 1699 jacket.
 

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