Securing a Serged Tail {stitching tip}

Dressing the Dressform {stitching tip}

While I adore the look of a professional dressform, I prefer the practicality of the adjustable one I have had for the last two years.  During this time I have lost twenty pounds, gained ten back, and am currently promising myself to get "back in shape" by dropping that extra ten.  This fluctuation in weight is the reason I love my adjustable dressform.  I have been able to manipulated it to replicate my body measurements during these weight fluctuations.  One thing that distracts me though is the gaps created by the adjustable panels.  Recently, I rectified this annoyance by making a sock to slide over my dressform, covering the gaping holes.

Button Loop Finish {stitiching tip}

image source

One of the biggest resources for improving sewing techniques are patterns. I recently was reminded of this fact while sewing Simplicity 1693. Amongst the instructional steps is one of the best pictorial for making a button loop. I am such a fan of this new-to-me feature. It allows for precisely matching thread to fabric, hides end knots within the seam, and is durable. Plus, this method can be incorporate into other areas of sewing, such as tacking the lining of a skirt to the dress hem or as belt holders.

Reads and Resources {stitiching tips}

A few years ago, I began sewing after years of denying my hobby.  Once the sewing itch came over me, I began searching for information. I was at a loss of where to look for information at first, but soon found a whole new world on the internet, and an addiction started.   

 

Here's a list of my favorite blogs and websites, which is ever growing to be sure. If I have forgot one of your favorites, please feel free to leave a comment with a link.   An asterisk (*) next to the link indicates sewing suppliers; some of them I have used, some I hold onto for later (in other words use at your own risk).  Organizing all these blogs is made easier though Bloglovin' or by direct emails; you can use both methods to follow so little time. 

(Press the link below, or the post title if the long list of websites are currently hidden from your view.)

Benifits of Sewing {stitching tip}

Being able to sew opens up doors.  Of course you can make you own outfits from top to bottom, but sewing also enables you to alter store bought clothes to fit your body.  And while I can certainly sew, not all my clothes are handmade.  I buy clothes from stores!  Gasp.  I like CERTAIN things when I see them.  If something catches me eye, I evaluate for uniqueness and pose the question, "Can I make that?" Most of the time this question is answered with a yes, and so I put the item back, but sometimes I reply that there is no way I could execute the project by myself.

Mass Cuttings {stitching tip}




Butterick 5610; Butterick 5890; Butterick 5754;
Butterick 5922; Vogue 8886; Butterick 5949; Simplicity 1806;
Simplicity 2249; Butterick 5997; Simplicity 1877; Butterick 5982

The end of last year was a major fail for starting and completing sewing projects.  I had a hard time committing to what I wanted to make and picking the fabric---there were just too many decisions to make that I felt paralyzed.  There other day, though, I decided it was time to get on with things and  spent the last three days cutting patterns.  Believe it or not, mass cuttings are a great motivation for me.  Not only is a pre-cut project ready to go when I am, it eliminates the second guessing---once something is cut the only option is to move forward.
 

Sewing Wheel {stitching tip}

The rolling wheel is one of my favorite sewing tools as of late. I have been on a quest to understand and conquer the Burda pattern. This road lead me to visit my local fabric store where I found two objects: the smooth rolling wheel and wax-free tracing paper. These two tools are wonderful for transferring pattern markings, like dart lines. Neither tool, however, is exactly convenient for transferring Burda patterns. The smooth wheel lacks the handiness of adding a seam allowance. However, there is a tool that is both convenient and handy, and in my view essential, the double wheeled adjustable rolling wheel. This tool can be adjusted to add seam allowance without having to do nasty math.   Should you wish to invest in sewing wheels, let me suggest the ergonomic versions like the white and green examples.  The blue is the cheapest kind that can be found, and just not comfy or durable as the others. 

Button Organization {stitching tip}

To say I have a ton of buttons, may be a bit of an exaggeration. However, I do have a serious amount and up until recently I never knew exactly how many or what kind I had on hand. Not to mention the fact that I had no idea if I had a complete set or my whole collection was made of single one of kind pieces.  After spending a fair amount of time laying all the buttons on the table and playing a rather difficult game of Memory (remember that childhood game of matching cards), I discovered I had a rather useful collection.

To organize my buttons, I bought bins used for organizing embroidery floss since they have sturdy sections built into to the design. Using the bins allows me to see what I have, and I can easily enough grab the color needed instead of search relentlessly or buy more. I’m very happy with the outcome.

Simple Belt Loop {stitching tip}

Remember this dress from a couple of weeks ago? Well, I really wanted to wear a belt with this dress but I had an issue. It, meaning the belt, would not stay in place. To solve this problem, I added belt loops from the same fabric. Fabric loops are so much better than the chain stitch usually included in store bought clothes. Plus, having them made from the same fabric means that I could elect not to wear a belt and still be presentable.

Hope you find this simple pictorial helpful for adding belt loops to any garment.



Transfer Your Favorite Pattern {stitching tip}

Do you have a favorite pattern that you have used time and time again? Have you used it so many times that there are tears and pin holes making it so fragile that you weep every time you unfold it? It is no secret that I love Vogue 8754 and I have used it to the brink of death. Not wanting to buy another pattern but still wanting to keep the idea as close to the original as possible, I decided that I would preserve it.

The best way to prolong the life a pattern is to transfer the pattern to UNfusible interfacing. Do not use fusible facing. Use the kind that does not have heat transfer material. Trust me, inevitably the wrong side will be ironed making a mess of your iron and possibly a cherished project. The easiest way to copy the pattern is to place the pattern pieces below the facing and with a permanent ink pen carefully trace the shapes onto the interfacing. I only trace the size I intend to use. Make sure to mark all guides on the copy. Rulers can help with neatness. 

Besides preserving your pattern, I like working with the transferred pattern because it is slide resistant. You can place it on the fabric and it "sticks". It is easy to check measurements also, since the interfacing is more fabric like. I drape it over my dressform to check for ease. Another reason I prefer interface traced patterns is that the original pattern can be kept as intended. If you need another size down the road, simply reference the original.

Online Pattern Discovery {stitching tip}

New patterns are at our fingertips at all times of the day without leaving our sewing room.  I was a bit hesitant in buying and downloading one until I found Burda 118 from the Burda Style website.  I have been looking for this design for a couple of years now and was so excited that despite the 95 degrees outside and an astonishing humidity, I bought it straight away. 

After coping all 31 pages on my personal printer and purchasing the cheapest interfacing (unfusible) to copy the pattern onto, I sat down to tape the pieces together.  A grid is provided so navigating the sections isairly easy, pluc all page side are labeled with a number.  Not all patterns include seam allowance, which presents a problem.  A very big problem.   

As a lazy sewer, which is honestly the truth, I am at a lose.  What am I supposed to do with a pattern that has no seam allowances?  Do they honestly expect me to do all the measuring and marking to get the pattern so I can sew it?  I know/  The answer is yes.  Does anyone have any suggestions or resources for making a Burda pattern compatible with a lazy sewer? 

Until I have a solution, my hopes of having this cute little jacket hang in limbo--and that simply must not happen because I have to have this coat!

 

To Dressform or Not {stitching tip}

For the longest time, I did not use or have a dressform. My grandma had one, and on occasion I would play with it, sort of like a big doll with no head, arms, or legs. For the most part, I found it more bother than worth. That was until Santa brought the correct size last Christmas. Now, it is by far a sewing essential. I love it. It allows me to fit my clothes properly without enlisting my husband or me making the wild body movement just to pin a fitted bodice.

Unfortunately, one dressform does not work for everyone. If you are thinking of purchasing a dressform, size matters. You can purchase custom forms which are fitted to specification that you provide and are not adjustable. Dressforms also come in an adjustable version. The benefit of the adjustable version is that you can change the size by turn dials. So, let's say you followed through on your new year's resolution to drop some weight; well you can dial down the measurements as you shed the pounds.

Tack Marks {stitching tip}



My grandmother started me sewing when I was very young.  I had my first machine when I was 2, and she let me have all the fabric I could ever dream of having---with the one requirement, I could only pick stuff out of the garbage can.  She was a professional seamstress, and though I learned many things from her, I also learned to be a bit lazy.  I take shortcuts when sewing all the time, including transferring the pattern markings to fabric. 

Until recently, I used straight pins to mark my guides and darts.  I've learned this methods is not reliable though; the pins are annoying to deal and often leave their mark on my poor thumb.  Frustrated, I transitioned to tailor's chalk.  Chalk has flaws too.  Sometimes the mark can be large and undefinable as in where exactly to stop/start---an 1/8 inch matters sometimes.  The other flaw with chalk is,  it can leave marks.  For example, on my white dress I used blue chalk that stained the finished garment.

Basting Love {stitching tip}

McCall's 1878

Oh for the love of basting.  This technique is an amazing habit that will save time and improve your sewing.  Basting is a large loose stitch that holds a piece in place but offers no long-term durability.  Before a couple of months ago, I never temporarily stitched pieces together, instead I used countless straight pins to hold things in place while I machine sewed the pieces permanently in place.  While the stack-o-pins method works, basting makes things easier and safer from pin-pricks.  Sure, it seems like it can be a waste of time to "hand sew" things together that are just going to be machine pieced; but think of this, basting stitches can stay in place before, during, and after the project's life cycle.  A most useful place to use a baste stitch is for placing a pleat. 



My Singer HD-110 {stitching tip}

I have two sewing machines, not counting the two overlocks; the Singer HD-110, which is the one I use every day, and a very old Viking. They both have issues right now and are on their way to the hospital to be fixed. I love my Singer. I call it my straight stitch machine.   This machine sews through whatever I put in front of it----at very high-speed.  What it lacks in fancy stitches, it makes up for in speed.  Because of the high-speed, I have to watch my thread as it is prone to break, especially if it is cotton.  Is the durability there though?  Yes, my machine just needs routine maintenance.  Call it an oil change.  The reviews are mixed on the Internet about it though.  My thought is this, if you are a novice, once in while sewer, you won't like the machine.  It is a bit much for your needs.  The speed is very hard to control.  Would I recommend buying it?  You bet.  This machine is not smarter than you.  You are in control of it.  The price is great for what you are getting too.  Once my zag is in line with my zig, I'll be back into my sewing groove.