It Worked! {OOP Vogue 1240}

Pattern:  Vogue 1240 - Out of Print
Sizing: custom
Fabric: bemberg; chiffon
Notions:  three buttons
Instructions: didn't use
Modification: too many---made into a shirt; sized; no invisible zipper; construction
Recommend: I like it!

Vogue 1240 is one of those patterns that ends up in your sewing stash simply because it looks cool.  That's how I came to own it. I never really dreamed of actually sewing the halter dress until one day I came up with the idea to make it into a shirt.  A shirt seemed much more practical and something that could actually be worn on any old day. 

Not knowing how the little transformation would turn out, I used a bunch of inexpensive polyester chiffon and basic bemberg lining.  The pattern calls for over one yard of lining and nearly three yards of chiffon.  I only shortened the dress by ten inches, so the modified pattern needed almost the same amount of material. 

Chiffon is not fun to work with, and I have no idea why I keep buying it.  Well, I know why I bought this one; I like the print.  Cutting the fabric was an adventure. The shirt has three layers: lining, chiffon base, and pleated overlay.  It was slippery and with the number of pieces that needed to be cut I spent a fair amount of time hacking the fabric.  The original pattern staggers the hemline of the overlay so the undershirt peaks out at the hemline.  For this iteration, the chiffon pieces all end at the same point, which was the biggest challenge of making this shirt.  I'm not sure how the hem ended up correctly, but sure enough the three layers turned out alright. 

Actually, I'm not sure how the entire shirt ended up working.  With all the modifications to change the pattern I also had to adjust the sizing by nearly an inch on both sides seams.  In the end, the instructions were abandoned so I could follow the construction in a logical manner in my head and keep the integrity of the fraying fabric. 

The seams were finished with self bias, French seams, or overlock.  As always, a bit of hand sewing was done.  For the hemlines, a running stitch conceals the serged edge.  Bias tape is stitched by hand on the inside of the lining; as well as hand-stitching the collar under-stitching. 

The collar is by far my favorite part of this shirt.  I like the height, the feel of the fabric, and the three little buttons to one side.  The original pattern calls for an invisible zipper along the side seam, but the arm opening is large enough for putting it on and off. 

I am really happy with this little top.  It ended up being better than I imagined, and while a challenge, fun.  Even though the pattern was transformed, I recommend adding this out of print design to your collection.  After my experience, I believe it can be dressed up or down.  One of the recommended fabrics is jersey, and I think you can find success if you ignore the middle layer; same recommendation would be given for working with rayon. 

Ahhhh, a Facing is Needed {Simplicity 1430}

Pattern: Simplicity 1430
Version: the shirt - view B
Sizing: 16
Fabric: rayon
Instructions: you should read them first
Modification: seam finishing
Recommend: yes

Simplicity 1430 has been my go to pant pattern. With as many times as the envelope has been handled, the shirt image catches my eye often. One evening, I finally took matters in my hands and cut into a piece of polyester rayon type fabric.

If a person reads the directions, the shirt is easy to make. If a person ignores all directions, including how many pieces to cut of the neckband, things could be a bit confusing. I spent way too long trying to make the neck strap work without a facing.  So, when you get around to making this shirt, cut four pieces for the neck line:  two for the front and two for the back.  Directions...I guess it is a necessary tool, sometimes.

Sewing Project for the Man {Thread Theory Finlayson}

Is it just me, or do you also get asked by that special man in your life to make something for him? I always had good intentions, but could never find anything cool enough until I ran across Thread Theory on Pintrest. The Finlayson changed my world and I finally was able to make a awesome shirt. Hands down, this pattern made me so happy. And better yet, it made that man in my life happy to get a handmade shirt from me finally!  If you're looking for detailed information on making the shirt, don't stop here, skip directly to the sewalong on Thread Theory's blog. So helpful and informative!  I NEED to make more, not only for the Man but also for myself.  He wears his so often that I am a bit jealous. 

Size Could Have Saved the Shirt {Simplicity 1779}

Pattern: Simplicity 1799
Version:  B
Sizing: 14 - RTW size guess 8
Fabric: something like tricot
Notion: cute buttons
Instructions: good
Modification: no back darts
Recommend: yes

Back in May, I made nine Grainline Archer button shirts as part of my yearly series, One Month, One Pattern. This exercise proved to be a great value because applying those well practiced skills, such as plackets, bottom holes, and general shirt making, allowed Simplicity 1799 to come together for me without incidence. Every seam provoked a feeling of harmony and gratitude.

Well, everything was butterflies and fluffy clouds until...I noticed a flaw in the fabric. Across the bust, the fabric has a dye streak. While this spot could have stood a chance of being unnoticed on a unfitted shirt, this particular top is supper fitted.  I selected the wrong size, making the fabric flaw even more evident. Ease is non-existent in this shirt, which is its only downside. In order to have a bit more movement, I omitted the back darts. Other than that, no modifications were made. I even used the bias pieces provided as part of the pattern. Each piece fit nicely with the other. Even the finicky tie intersection came together following the directions.

A Long Time Waiting Part 1 {Vogue 8886}

Pattern:  Vogue 8886

Version:  A - the shirt
Sizing:  12 to 14 with additional tailoring
Fabric:  wool/polyester suiting
Notions:  interfacing; invisible zipper; 2-hook and eyes
Instructions:  very nice
Modification:  no lining
Recommend:  yes

One of my most worn makes is a dress version of Vogue 8886.  I have worn that dress on so many occasions over the last two years.  So, when I finally decided to complete the original idea of having a pant and top version, I knew the top would be a success.  For the most part, I followed exactly the same steps to make this shirt as my tropical wool dress.  The only change I made was to put a single layer of cotton-backed interfacing on my polyester/wool mix suiting.  I wished for the collar to have more mobility and for this material weight it works fine. 

I only came across one issue, and that was my own doing---the serger cut a hole in my top.  I am so ashamed.  I thought about cutting a new front side section, even though everything was completed except tacking down the bias used for the underarm.  In the end, I decided to make a small patch.  I hope that no one will notice or care. 

Expect to see this pattern used one last time.  I want to try a winter version made with long sleeves and a full lining.  These elements are different than what I have sewn so far, and it will be interesting to see if good results can be made by adding the extra fabric. 

Take a Bow {Simplicity 2154}

Pattern:  Simplicity 2154
Version: B - the sleeveless shirt
Sizing:  14
Fabric:  gabridine
Notions:  hook-and-eye
Instructions:  fine, except for neck finish
Modification:  hook-and-eye finish; flat felted seams
Recommend:  yes

 

This shirt. I can finally mark it off the list as being completed. It's one of those projects that had been sitting in limbo for a few years just waiting to be tackled. I stitched a size 14, not thinking about the pattern being drafted for wear under the jacket. It's a bit snug for my average sized cups (small C), but suitable for wearing beneath something. Other than wanting the shirt to be less structured, I only came across one little issue. The directions for finishing the neckband where missing (though it might just be me not paying close attention). Rectifying the oversight, I finished with a hook-and-eye. This seems to be a intermediate skilled sewing project, which I would recommend. The uniqueness makes it something that I more than likely will pass on making again, but that certainly means you should give it a try.

 

Home Ec Perfection {Simplicity 1589}

image source

Pattern:  Simplicity 1589
Version:  B - rear
Sizing:  14
Fabric:  rayon
Assembly time:  5 hrs
Instructions:  great
Modification:  none
Recommend:  yes, yes, yes

Where was this pattern when I was in Home Ec?  This little shirt would have been right up my alley.  It took me five hours to complete, from cutting to the final ironing.  Meaning, the project could be made in one week of school. Plus, this "Learn to Sew" pattern has great directions for the beginner seamstress or tailor.  One thing that is fabulous about the drafting, is the neck and armholes are finished with bias. Yeah, no facing!  The fabric used for this creation is leftover rayon from a Butterick 5956 summer dress I made last year.  The rayon was a bit difficult to navigate, and I would recommend using a voile for the newbie.  Actually, when I make it again I will use a light-weight cotton because this cutie is being made again. 

The End is Here 1M1P # 8 {Grainline Archer}

Pattern:  Grainline Archer
Version:  A
Sizing:  10 to 14
Fabric:  shirting with stretch
Notions:  ten little buttons
Instructions:  lovely
Modification:  reduced length of sleeve; ribbon on front button band
Recommend:  YES!  I'd make a dozen more too.

Oh man, there was many times this month when I felt in over my head.  I cut eight Grainline Archer and sewed seven Grainline Archer button-down shirts in thirty days!  It all started with a yearly challenge that I give myself to make as many items I can from one pattern in one month.  Usually for One Month, One Pattern I pick a fairly basic pattern, but this year I chose the Grainline Archer because I needed and wanted more button down shirts to wear outside this summer to provide some protection from the sun and dirt.  While I give myself a standing ovation for following through with my goal, making so many shirts was not as creatively freeing as in the past, and I stuck mostly to the drafted pattern and instructions.  For example, on this black and white checked version, I simply added grosgrain ribbon to the button band. 

I Made My Shirt 1M1P #7 {Grainline Archer}

Have you heard about the Fashion Revolution movement to: 

• "Raise awareness of the true cost of fashion and its impact at every stage in the process of production and consumption
• Show the world that change is possible through celebrating those involved in creating a more sustainable future
• Bring people together the length of the value chain, from farmers to factory workers, brands to buyers, consumers to campaigners, to ask questions and to communicate with each other
• Work towards long-term industry-wide change by using the Ethical Fashion Forum Value Chain Call to Action to get consensus around what change needs to happen"?

The organization presents an interesting perspective on garment production. From a person who makes her own clothes, I find it compelling especially when I learned that April 24, today, was picked to remember the deadliest disaster in the history of the garment industry worldwide. In 2013, 1,137 people were killed at the Rana Plaza building, containing multiple clothing production factories, in Dhaka, Bangladesh when the structure collapse.  Over 3,000 were in the building at the time. According to the Institute for Global Labor and Human Rights, while the building obviously had construction problems, other issues appear to have existed including low pay, brutality, and underage employment. Besides the harsh working conditions that sometimes occur within the fashion industry, particularly "fast fashion", there is an environmental impact for each garment, that includes resource accumulation, fiber production, and transportation. I encourage you to read about the environmental footprint of clothing, the Bangladesh disaster, and the Fashion Revolution movement.  It is "good to know" information to being an engaged consumer.

With that said, I wanted to do my part to participate in the Fashion Revolution cause this April 24.  So, when I dressed for my riding lesson today, I put on my latest One Month, One Pattern Archer shirt with the intent of printing the above poster to take a "selfie" per the directions, but there was no ink in the printer.  So, it is just me in my handmade skirted shirt. 

Screaming Summer 1M1P #6 {Grainline Archer}

Pattern:  Grainline Archer
Version:  A
Sizing:  10 to 14
Fabric:  Swiss dot cotton
Notions:  9 little buttons
Instructions:  lovely
Modification:  reduced length of sleeve; ribbon tag
Recommend:  yes

When I picked the Grainline Archer for the One Month, One Pattern series this year, this shirt is exactly what I had in mind.  It screams summer, not only in the white, red, and blue motif, but it is light-weight.  Other than modifying the pattern to fit my shape and adding a ribbon tag, no changes were made to the drafting of the pieces.  Up until this point, none of the shirts have been 100 percent cotton.  The cotton sewed up so well for this pattern that I would highly recommend it for further shirts.

Another Plain Jane 1M1P #5 {Grainline Archer}

Pattern:  Grainline Archer
Version:  A - collar stand only
Sizing:  10 to 14
Fabric:  shirting with stretch
Notions:  9 little buttons
Instructions:  lovely
Modification:  reduced length of sleeve; collar stand only
Recommend:  yes

 

Calling It a Wadder 1M1P #4 {Grainline Archer}

Most of the my fabric for  One Month, One Pattern 2015 came from a huge order that was made specifically to obtain material for this project.  I buy a lot of my fabric these days online, and so I know the uncertainty of purchasing fabric without seeing or feeling.  I also know that laying down a huge amount of money is a bit foolish without first receiving a swatch.  For my faux fur coat I ordered material on multiple times because of the $50.00 per yard fee.  However, for One Month, One Pattern 2015, no swatches were ordered.  Instead, the yardage went from my cart directly to my mailbox, resulting in some hits, maybes, and definitely a miss. 

 

Standout Skirted Shirt 1M1P #3 {Grainline Archer}

Pattern:  Grainline Archer

Version:  B
Sizing:  10 to 14
Fabric:  lawn so they say
Notions:  9 snaps
Instructions:  very needed and detailed
Modification:  reduced length of sleeve; French seams
Recommend:  yes

 

Here is a charmer, and I am not only talking about the finished product, but the pattern.  I adore the gathered rear skirt on Version B.  It marries well with the pleated cuff sleeves.  It is also really fun, and young, and fresh.

Bland Beige Experiment 1M1P #2 {Grainline Archer}

Pattern:  Grainline Archer
Version:  A - with pocket and other modifications
Sizing:  10 to 14
Fabric:  shirting with stretch
Notions:  nine little buttons
Instructions:  lovely
Modification:  straighten sleeve; reduced length of sleeve
Recommend:  yes

 

 

The One Month One Pattern series this year is all about filling a gap in my wardrobe.  I am in desperate need of shirts to wear in the dust and grime of the horse ranch.  Since most of the time is actually spent in the middle of a dust bowl and in full sun I choose a couple of fabrics that side on the light-weight beige side of the spectrum.  While this bland fabric selection lacks spunk, it is perfect for testing out a new pattern and experimenting with different options.

One Month, One Pattern Inauguration 2015 {Grainline Archer}

Reaching into your closet, do you select handmade clothes or is it easier to dress in factory made garments? I would like to say that nearly everything I wear is custom made, but that is far from the truth. I do wear what I make, but surprisingly have very few pieces to accommodate an everyday outfit. Two years ago, I began the series One Month, One Pattern to aid in creating a larger wardrobe. The concept is about using one pattern and producing as many quality pieces possible in one month. At first, it may seem like a bore to make the same thing over-and-over again, however, focusing on one pattern enables fitting issues to be resolved before starting the next version, creativity to be used to create different looking pieces, and mastering techniques.

Black Bodice {McCall's 2818}

Pattern:  McCall's 2818
Version:  closest to A with no sleeves and round neck
Sizing:  14
Fabric:  ponte
Notions: invisible zipper; self-made bias tape
Instructions:   oops, didn't use
Modification:  no buttons; took-in back seam
Recommend:  yes

As soon as I ordered the fabric for my next post (hint:  think cosmos), I needed (that may be an exaggeration) a simple, close-fitting, tank to complete the outfit.  Knowing exactly what style the skirt (another hint) called for, I set about mimicking the bodice I made out of extra brocade fabric. 

Lovely Fabric Must Not Be Wasted {McCall's 2818}

Pattern:  McCall's 2818
Version:  closest to A with no sleeves and round neck
Sizing:  started with 14 ended with 12
Fabric:  cotton brocade
Notions: invisible zipper; self-made bias tape
Instructions:   oops, didn't use
Modification:  shortened length; no buttons
Recommend:  sure

McCall's 2818 is one of the first patterns I purchased when sewing became a focus of this blog.  I was attracted to the various versions: the high-split neckline, the scallop edging at the bottom hem, sleeves verse no sleeves, and the princess seams.  Recently, a pair of pants from Simplicity 1430 was completed from some very soft cotton brocade fabric---one of my favorite things at the moment.  Not wanting to waste one square inch of the material, I pulled McCall's 2818 to make a coordinating top; and luckily, there was just enough fabric left to squeeze the shirt together with some small modifications. 

Placket? Oh No, No! {Vogue 1306}

Pattern: Vogue 1306
Version: B
Sizing: large
Fabric: 1.5 yrds jersey
Assembly time: 3 hrs from cutting to finishing
Instructions: easy to understand
Modification: no placket
Recommend: Yes, I like it more without the placket. Version B would be even better without the placket too!

I am not shy to using a pattern over, and after  wearing a garment I often decided on tweaking it to make life more comfortable. Vogue 1306 (Mrs. T Shirt) went through this evolution. After wearing the shirt a few times, I noticed I kept fidgeting with the placket. It never felt like it was laying correctly and allowed the sleeve too much slack, resulting in the shirt falling off the shoulder. I actually retired the shirt, because of the bad fit.  While browsing the fabric store, though, I came across a knit that I actually truly like---amazing. Even without a larger plan, I bought enough to make a shirt. Then it hit me, Vogue 1306 without placket would be W-O-N-D-E-R-F-U-L. And it is. Super easy, quick, simple, and the ruffle detail makes it unique...what's not to love. 

PR Post of Simplicity 1699 {patternreview.com}

This entry was originally posted on patternreview.com and on this site as Pep to My Lum My Darling.

Version: view B

Sizing: 12 (best guess a size 6 in RTW)

Fabric: wool tricotine roughly 1 yrd with linen collar

Assembly time: 4 hrs

Were the instructions easy to follow? The directions are great. I had no problems following them during construction and recommend perusing as a reference. The completion of the sleeve cap is easily obtained by the step-by-step instructions. I particularly like the fact that the hem is finished prior to sleeve inset. (FYI-The directions are different for the short sleeve.)

Matchmaking Mishap {Butterick 5922}

Pattern:  Butterick 5922

Version:  C with collar
Sizing:  14
Fabric:  .5 yrd cotton with 1 yrd voile overlay
Notions:   hook and eye
Instructions:  fine
Modification:   fabric selection
Recommend:   maybe, if knit is used

Peter Pan collars are an instant draw for me, and hence I am attracted to Butterick 5922. I was also attracted to this blue and white piece of voile. Having an affection to two items in the sewing world may not mean a match is made in heaven and this shirt is proof of such a unlikely love affair. 

True to form, I disregarded the instructions and went ahead with my matchmaking, altering the side seams to increase the ease of the shirt by simply straightening the curves. Since the voile is transparent, the underlay is made of simple white cotton. All and all this is a “fast and easy” project and something that I would recommend to the up-and-coming sewing guru, just be mindful of the fabric.  Matching the pattern with a stretch fabric, as recommended on the envelope, would definitely improve the wearability/comfort of this top.