5/19/2014

Bishop Sleeves 1M1P #5 {Simplicity 1693}

Pattern:  Simplicity 1693
Version:  View F with bishop sleeves
Sizing:  12
Fabric:  1.5 yrds challis
Notion:  snap; interfacing; ribbon
Assembly time:  3.5 hrs
Instructions:  good
Modification:  made self bias tape at 2 inches; .5 inch allowance for French seams; narrow hem; added bishop sleeves by adding markings from straight sided bodice pattern pieces; reworked neckline opening
Recommend:  yes, add sleeve marks to the unmarked pieces though




Another creation from Simplicity 1693 has been completed! I love this pattern and am so happy that I selected it for my blog series, One Month, One Pattern. I still have many ideas, but it seems I am running out of time (with the month half over) and fabric resources (guess that means shopping). So far, I have used cotton, denim, silk, and challis for construction; I have to say challis is my favorite. This is my second shirt made from the smooth finished, flowing fabric.



I cannot say loud enough that French seams work wonderfully for this shirt! Particularly since the hem used in View F creates a high-low effect and the challis moves in the wind, making completely finished hems very nice looking for when the shirt inside is visible. I did end up making a modification to the neckline gap by overlapping the seams, which occurs naturally with the French method. By placing a small amount of interfacing along the seam line, the neck relief is supported and makes sewing easy since the top-stitching is close to the edge. Since the gap is now overlapped, a snap finishes the collar.



As far as the sleeves go, markings are not included on all bodice pieces (pieces 9 and 10). However, I took the marked pieces (pieces 1 and 2) and copied the placement on the unmarked front and side bodice. I had no difficultly with setting the sleeve even when using French seams at a .5 inch allowance. The elastic cuff of the bishop sleeve can be a bit bulky, and dare I say homemade looking. I placed bias tape on the edge and incased the elastic as the instructions say; it could just as well have been done by simply folding over the sleeve edge. The finishing is not wonderful in my view, but I am at a loss to another method. Plus the sleeves can be pushed so the cuff is hidden...not a big deal right?

More One Month, One Pattern articles:
Introduction: One Month, One Pattern {Simplicity 1693}
Cotton Ruffles 1M1P #1: One Month, One Pattern Simplicity 1693 {patternreview.com}
Simply Exposure 1M1P #2 {Simplicity 1693}
Flutter Sleeves 1M1P #3 {Simplicity 1693}
From B5997 to S1693 1M1P #4 {Simplicity 1693}
Bishop Sleeves 1M1P #5 {Simplicity 1693}
Turned to a Dress 1M1P #6 {Simplicity 1693}
Fabric Matters 1M1P #7 {Simplicity 1693}
Blue Bird Flutter 1M1P #8 {Simplicity 1693}
It's a Celebration 1M1P #9 {Simplicity 1693}
One Month, One Pattern 2014 Recap {Simplicity 1693}

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