I Made My Shirt 1M1P #7 {Grainline Archer}

Have you heard about the Fashion Revolution movement to: 

• "Raise awareness of the true cost of fashion and its impact at every stage in the process of production and consumption
• Show the world that change is possible through celebrating those involved in creating a more sustainable future
• Bring people together the length of the value chain, from farmers to factory workers, brands to buyers, consumers to campaigners, to ask questions and to communicate with each other
• Work towards long-term industry-wide change by using the Ethical Fashion Forum Value Chain Call to Action to get consensus around what change needs to happen"?

The organization presents an interesting perspective on garment production. From a person who makes her own clothes, I find it compelling especially when I learned that April 24, today, was picked to remember the deadliest disaster in the history of the garment industry worldwide. In 2013, 1,137 people were killed at the Rana Plaza building, containing multiple clothing production factories, in Dhaka, Bangladesh when the structure collapse.  Over 3,000 were in the building at the time. According to the Institute for Global Labor and Human Rights, while the building obviously had construction problems, other issues appear to have existed including low pay, brutality, and underage employment. Besides the harsh working conditions that sometimes occur within the fashion industry, particularly "fast fashion", there is an environmental impact for each garment, that includes resource accumulation, fiber production, and transportation. I encourage you to read about the environmental footprint of clothing, the Bangladesh disaster, and the Fashion Revolution movement.  It is "good to know" information to being an engaged consumer.

With that said, I wanted to do my part to participate in the Fashion Revolution cause this April 24.  So, when I dressed for my riding lesson today, I put on my latest One Month, One Pattern Archer shirt with the intent of printing the above poster to take a "selfie" per the directions, but there was no ink in the printer.  So, it is just me in my handmade skirted shirt. 


Pattern:  Grainline Archer
Version:  B - with modifications
Sizing:  10 to 14
Fabric:  shirting with stretch
Notions:  12 little round buttons
Instructions:  lovely
Modification:  straighten sleeve; no traditional button cuff
Recommend:  yes

Even though I can say I make my own cloths, which reduces my reliance of certain production factors, I still recognize that everything I use to make my craft has a environmental impact.  This shirt is a typical example.  Starting with the pattern, I ordered a paper copy of the Grainline Archer via some random Etsy shop and had it shipped to me by the US Postal Service.  The fabric was purchased from an online mega fabric store and was sent through UPS.  While it is mostly made with cotton, there is polyester (aka more petroleum) in the mix making it stretchy.  I have no clue to the nationality of the fabric, but can guess it was woven and dyed in Asia.  The plastic buttons (made in China), cotton-backed interfacing, and thread (made in Germany) where bought at the local mega fabric store which I traveled to in my own car on two different occasions.  Perhaps, the cotton is the only raw material that originally came from the United States, but I have no idea to that accuracy.  I know my sewing machine was fabricated in China---it is generously labeled---and contains plastic, metal, and glass parts.  I can only hope that these pieces were made from recycled materials, but I have a feeling that is only a wish.  The sewing machine was shipped to my house a few years ago.  I used an old needle, but that still leaves a footprint on the environment.  The electricity that made this shirt comes from a hydroelectric damn (the Hover) in another state, and probably has the largest prolong environmental impact that went into making this garment.  Although, mining for oil and metal may be a contender.  While everything I sew has an effect on the environment, I have to say though, that my working conditions are outstanding.  I work when I want, I take breaks, and food and drinks are always provided.  The pay is pretty low, but definitely worth the effort as I have new apparel at my figure tips.

 

 

The consumer price for a shirt like this would be expensive in my book.  How much?  Maybe ninety dollars.  Yes, I think that is expensive, mostly because I am capable of making it myself.  The Archer is pretty simple to make, and the directions are wonderful.  Making the pattern a couple of times makes the assembly even more simple.  For this version, I decided to refashion the cuffs.  It was a failed attempt, and I should have went with the original pattern drafting.  I changed the lines of the sleeve to be straight and bound the edge.  The cuffs turned out to be large, so a pleat and buttons reduce the size.

 

Up next is my last shirt for my One Month, One Pattern series.  Boy have I been busy this month, and am really looking forward to dealing with a different pattern.  Eight shirts in a row that are basically the same is exhausting.  I still like the pattern though. 

One Month One Pattern 2015 Inauguration 1M1P #1
Bland Beige Experiment 1M1P #2 {Grainline Archer}
Standout Skirted Shirt 1M1P #3 {Grainline Archer} 
Calling It a Wadder 1M1P #4 {Grainline Archer}
Another Plain Jane 1M1P #5 {Grainline Archer}
Screaming Summer 1M1P #6 {Grainline Archer}