Little Black Cocktail Dress {Vogue 1102}

Pattern: Vogue 1102

Sizing: 14 (tailored but loose)
Fabric: 3.5 yrds cotton velvet; 1 yrd polyester crepe for lining
Notions: invisible zipper; hook and eye; 4 packs hem tape
Assembly time: 1 hr redrafting and muslin, 1 hr cutting, 3 hr sewing; total 5 hrs
Instructions: I’d love to say they were wonderful or horrible, but I lost them so there is no opinion.
Modification: altered bodice and shortened skirt
Recommend: surprisingly yes, especially with modifications

I’ve admired the image of Vogue 1102 ever since I ran across the pattern, but was hesitant to jump into the project because something seemed a bit off. I spent hours (ok more than one but less than two) mulling over how to tackle the project in a way that kept the overall design but complemented my self-confidence and body type. One of the biggest problems I had was the cut of the back. I felt it was a bit too low to be flattering on me and, it being a winter cocktail dress, not covering in a sufficient manner. I love winter, but I will pass every time on being cold.

So before the pattern was even cut, I made a revision. I raised the back pieces, by 10 inches, to a secure level with the added bonus that no special undergarment would be needed. That is to say, the bra is fully covered which in the original version it seems a backless bra is necessary. Unfortunately, the lovely bow would be discarded in my version mainly because functionally there is no need and secondly because there was no place to put it. Like really, the only place it could go would be my butt region….ummm NO!  

 

Since I made a major change to the pattern, I thought it best to make a muslin to test my handy-work which was a brilliant idea because it pointed out another body-conscience flaw. For the first muslin, I left the front skirt-to-bodice seam unchanged. This resulted in a look in which  I had no waist and looked about ten pounds heavier than usual. Though it is difficult to tell from the pattern picture, it sits directly on the lower bust line. I decided to extend the bodice by 3 inches, front and back, so the bodice hit closer to my natural waistline. In addition to this adjustment, I lowered the neckline by 2 inches and took it in by 1/2 inch.

 

Looking at other reviews, I knew the key to success for this dress was dependent on fabric. The pattern suggests broadcloth, sateen, or light-weight linen. Well, I disagree with these recommendations. This dress needs fabric with some substance, some bulk. I think that it can handle the bulk because there is no gathering and few curved seams. Therefore, I chose a black cotton velvet and am so happy that did. It was the perfect choice.  

 

My fabric was not the standard width, instead it was 36 inches and had a nap. Being skinner and directional, I had to pay attention when cutting the skirt out, particularly the front section which was to be cut on the fold. Instead I had to cut two pieces and sew a center seam. This work-around resulted in an acceptable end product and no one would guess that it was to be another way. The pattern recommends purchasing a little over 4 yards, but the store only had 3.5. I decided prior to buying it that I would shorten the skirt to accommodate the fabric shortage. I took 6 inches off the length, which resulted in the skirt hitting at the knee, but remember I added three inches to the bodice so essentially the overall dress length was only shortened by 3 inches.  

 

The bodice was completed much the same way any top would be finished with a lining. It was really easy. Though I am unable to tell you exactly that the seam allowance for the neck and arm is meant to be 5/8 inch since I lost the directions, I made mine 3/8 inch. The larger allowance would have increased the hole openings, which was unnecessary.  

One thing that is not highlighted all that well is the rear waist seam which is a lovely curve. With the extended bodice, this curve sits nicely on my lower hip. This detail is probably lost in the original pattern since the bow seems large and would cover the seam.

For the inside of the skirt, I bound the seam allowance because I wanted a nice finish. I did have a really hard time finishing the hem. I bound the circle skirt with the same velvet fabric as the dress. I decided to use the same fabric to give extra structure and weight along with making a smooth line along the hem edge.  

  

 

This dress is better than I could have dreamed. I do like it is immensely and even though I made adjustments to the pattern I recommend it. I would encourage using heavier fabric or at least contemplating your fabric choice.