Tealing Beautiful {Butterick 5949}

Pattern:  Butterick 5949
Version:  D
Sizing:  bodice 12 to skirt 14
Fabric:  wool suiting; polyester lining
Notions:  invisible zipper; interfacing
Instructions:  just right
Modification:  none, other than putting the zipper behind the skirt lining
Recommend:  yes!  I really want to try this pattern in other variations.

Butterick 5949 was such a welcome surprise.  Lately, I have been sewing pretty simple garments that lack complicated corners, very little hand stitching, and few pattern pieces. And while Butterick 5949 is straight-forward, it incorporates interesting sleeves, slip-stitching the lining, and a fair number of pattern pieces. 


This dress took me a number of weeks to complete.  I went into the project without all the necessary elements; probably not the best way to start a project.  Unfortunately, I ordered the wrong amount of wool suiting and was bent on having the dress made in this teal green color.  With a bit on ingenuity, I was able to cut all the pieces except the waistband.  The length of the waistband was achieved by sewing sections together.  While it looks a bit off when I point the issue out on the side, since the seams are mismatched, I personally have no problem with this work around.

Secondly, matching lining had to be ordered.  I had none and no brick-and-mortar store could match the color of the fabric in a nice weight for lining.  In the end, a couple of different chooses were delivered, giving me options.  The chosen lining fabric is a stiff polyester with a eye-playing print.  I hypothesis the lining will aid in supporting the sleeves and pleats, allowing the details to stand rather than drape. Another issue that was encountered was the zipper. Local stores have limited selection and had neither a teal or green 22 inch invisible that matched the outer fabric.  So, a separate order was placed for zippers that may work.  Luckily, I ordered a selection which brought two acceptable choices---a brown-green and teal.  As you can see in the picture below (marked number 1), neither zipper tape matches; however, the green zipper pull blends more naturally and was crowned the winner.

1) tough zipper match; 2) waist band construction; 3) sleeve to bodice intersection; 4) bodice pleats

The neck and sleeve pleats are the main attraction to View B of this pattern.  At this point, I should confess that I transposed the pleat location, so while the pattern has the pleats on the right, mine are on the left.  This did cause a little confusion, mainly with the sleeve and sleeve lining construction. 

The sleeve structure is so interesting.  It has the remembrance of shoulder pads, but the look is achieved with cut and stitching so the pesky pads are irrelevant.  The pleated sleeve has a separate lining, resulting in a smoother fit underneath and no uneven bulk compared to the outward showing drape.  

Speaking of sleeves, the lining is attached prior to connecting it to the bodice.  Transfer all the marks to both the lining and the outer fabric---it honestly helps maintain a calm, collected attitude.  Also, this aids in meeting points where the sleeve intersects with the bodice--a rather tricky spot.  After completing the project, I wish I would have reinforced this point with a small section of light-weight interfacing.  This point (marked number 3 above) takes strain and would be stabilized with this effort.

 

 

There is a fair amount of hand-stitching called for in the actual directions for this dress, which is fun.  I need to do more hand sewing (said no one).  Be prepared to slip-stitch the lining sleeves and waistline.  Coincidently, I whip-stitched the bodice lining and catch-stitched the hem of the dress and lining. 

 

 

One element that is a bit unfortunate about the pattern is the zipper install. The skirt lining is stay-stitched prior to the waistband being attached, making the bottom half of the zipper sit on-top of the lining.  Personally, I believe the zipper tail should be hidden under the lining; and therefore, I left a section of the lining free so the invisible zipper was only attached to the outer fabric.  Another element that made me go "hmmmm..." is the fashion fabric being used at the waistband for lining.  While it does make the dress attractive inside, a lining cut section maybe more comfortable.  Since my fabric is soft and itch free, there is no issue, but is definitely something that should be kept in mind when you make your own version. 

 

hem detail includes catch-stitch, lining tack, bound edging, and interfacing

Though this pattern does requires intermediate sewing skills to accomplish, I definitely recommend trying your hand at Version B.  Other variations look as if success is just as likely.  Version A strikes my fancy, and I have a view in my head that color blocking is nice for all combinations of this pattern.