5/08/2012

Shorts {Simplicity 1879}

To muslin or not? 

That is the question.

To be completely honest; I don't think it is necessary to make a muslin.  For those of you that don't know what a muslin is, it is when a mock-up of the desired garment is done to determine the correct fit.  I find, for the most part, muslin a big waste of time.  I say this because I mostly sew dresses, I know my measurements, and I am consistently checking my measurement with the project.  If I have to make changes, I do so before even cutting my fabric, change things as I sew, and if I have to will make alterations after the fact.  That being said, I find it VERY important to make a muslin when doing pants.  Pants have way too many body angles for making these compensations without a pretest. 


Remember the shirt dress?  Well, I had leftover fabric and used the remainder for my muslin.  Usually, muslin is used because it is cheap, but I use whatever I have on hand.  I cut at a size 12 (or whichever size I am at that time) with the exact pattern contour, making no alterations.  I also sew without any alterations to the garment.  I don't try the garment on at all during this process.  So, by the time I am finished the pattern is as designed.  That is when I try it on to see if I like it.  If I don't, I toss the garment and the pattern.  If I like, I proceed with making more.  If there needs to be small changes, I will alter that pattern.  But only if there are MINIMAL changes.  Like I did with the pleats. 

I didn't like how the pleats where laying.  It looked a bit bulky, and more importantly felt a bit bulky.  This might have been because I used jean material, I'm not sure.  How I fixed this problem was top stitching the darts in place.  Can you see the small arrows?  Those are where I top stitched.  Around the waistline and a small square over the pleat. 



I also didn't add the cuff to the hem, which was called for in the pattern.  I didn't think it was necessary, and the shorts are short.  I took advantage of any additional length I could get.  So, here is the final product. 


Oh, one thing I forgot to mention, I don't sew in any notions when making a muslin.  These shorts call for a zipper down the side.  I only added the zipper after I knew I wanted to keep my "muslin" as a finished garment.  Of course, I used an invisible zipper because they are my favorite kind. 

While the front of the shorts had a bit of an issue, I love the fit of the back.  The darts are perfect. 



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