Lon(g)sdale Dress {Sewaholic 1102}

Pattern: Lonsdale Dress Sewaholic 1102

Version: B - floor length skirt
Sizing: 12
Fabric: 3 yrds washed silk at 60”
Notions: invisible zipper; cotton; interfacing; no-slip elastic
Assembly time: 14 hrs
Instructions: straight forward and easily understandable
Modification: altered top; invisible zipper; incased zipper
Recommend: yes

What does one do when you need to get out of the hair of an overly booked hostess who desperately needs to prepare for a grand party? Escape to the fabric store, of course. (In my defense I did all I could to help, but there are things that a guest simply cannot do. Like give directions, talk to caterers, and pay the bills.) I fell for this royal blue washed silk in a flash, even with the questioning look of my shopping companions who are NOT sewers. I bought every square inch available with no idea what I could possibly make until I was on my way back home. Before embarking on my weekend trip, I was admiring the Lonsdale Dress Sewaholic 1102 pattern. I received it as a gift a few years back and was thinking that I really should get around to using the gift as a way to thank the giver. Since the 4th of July celebration was right around the corner, I had a purpose for a new dress and with the blue fabric the Lonsdale dress seemed to be the perfect combination.

Silk fabric, or any slippery fabric for that matter, is not easy to sew. But, I love it, and so I must fiddle with it in order to improve. This dress was a painful experience in the pattern cutting step. Half the assembly time was spent trying to precisely trim and mark. I have found that the more accurate that I am cutting, the easier and better the results are for completing silky garment. One thing that overly complicated things for me is I only had three yards of fabric and wanted to create the floor length (Version B) design. Yes, only three yards of non-directional, but front to back variant fabric. The pattern envelope calls for four yards. I was a yard short. However, since I could turn the direction of the pattern pieces and I was able to seam the bodice lining together, the yardage shortage was an example of spatial problem solving that was conquerable.

 

1) altering bodice; 2) zipper finish; 3) back bodice lining

personal sizing

Sizing was an issue. I always thought I had a true pear-shaped body, but after exploring this pattern a reassessment was in order. I declare I have a triangle shape based on the finished size indicated on the pattern envelope. For this particular garment, I need a size 8 through the bust and 12 at the waist. To simplify things, a size 12 was cut and adjusted on the dressform. I took two inches off each side seam through the upper bodice. Looking back on how things were done, I really should have made a muslin of the top. Before decreasing the bust, there was an issue with the waistband sitting horizontal around the body. Having the correct bust size fixed this unevenness. In addition, I should have taken fabric out of the bodice back and failed to do so.

Silk has great drape.  If the neckline was left without stabilizing, I believe the fabric would sit funny around the chest and fail to support the entire dress through the back.  I therefore made the decision to reinforce the top seam of the bodice by adding a two inch cotton strip along the neck stitch-line. This step stabilized the fabric, eliminating the excess drape. I also took into account the fabric and interfaced both waist band pieces with medium weight iron-on facing. With the weight of the skirt, this was also needed so the waistband would not stretch or sag.

 

 

Typically, I shy away from floor length skirts; however, I absolutely love this skirt. It is so soft (thanks to the silk) and full, and I love the fact that the dress design lets the fabric hang from the hip but is fitted at the waist. The pockets are the easiest to make too. Stitch one curved seam, fold in half and you are finished. The skirt has four bias cut panels. I opted to French seam the skirt. Since the bodice is nicely finished with a full lining, the skirt should be too. As you can see in the picture below, there is a big difference in the unfinished hem edge particularly where the panels are sewn together. I let the dress sit on the dressform for a day to settle the seams before hemming. A very thin rolled hem was stitched. Word to the wise, I am 5’3” and this skirt, as printed and with only a half-inch hem, hits me at the ankle. If you are taller, add even more length for the long skirt.

Invisible zippers are the best (not everyone agrees, I know) and one was installed for this dress. I used the directions provided with the zipper packaging, applying it to the outer bodice and hand-stitching the lining around the zipper.  I also hand-stitched the waistband lining to skirt.

One little tip that I have found useful is to use a baste-stitch as a guideline, particularly when it comes to linings and slippery fabric and hand-stitching.  The baste-stitch should be sewn at the seam allowance desired.  After that, the fabric can either be ironed before stitching in place or tucked under as it is stitched. The guideline can also be used to uniformly hand-stitch items by counting the machine stitches and then applying a hand-stitch.

One thing that improves the bodice is to use plastic stay-tape, like the stuff used in sportswear, around the bodice top. I actually ended up hand stitching non-slip elastic along the back of the bodice and roughly three inches beyond the side seams after the dress was complete.  The center bodice was left without the alteration so it is able to drape and knot organically. 

I am seriously contemplating making the skirt without the bodice. It has the potential to make a lovely A-lined piece at various lengths that could be made over and over again. Hollyburn Skirt Sewaholic 1206 seems to be similar to the bottom half of this dress. While the bodice is cute, a single dress made from Lonsdale Dress Sewaholic 1102 is enough for my wardrobe.

 

With my independent thinking on ways to use this pattern in alternate ways and use of an independent pattern maker, I am off to celebrate America’s independence. Whether you are near or far, from here or there, Happy Independence Day.