Bravo to the New Year's Dress {Burda 10/12 #118A}

Pattern: Burda 10/12 #118A
Sizing: 36 to 38 plus a little extra in the hips
Fabric: 2 yrds stretch wool suiting; 1.5 yrd poly charmeuse
Notions: invisible zipper; hook and eye; twill tape; elastic
Assembly time: 8 hours (give or take)
Instructions: fine--it's Burda
Modification: added full lining
Recommend: yes

I originally saw the pattern for this dress published in the Burda Style – English edition in October 2012. Since then, I have wanted to make it, but kept putting it off (those pesky seam allowances that need to be added deter me with great vengeance). However, when it was republished in Burda Style Magazine for Winter 2014 I hopped on the task, especially when I read the seam allowances were added to the winter iteration.


After testing the pattern on some scrap fabric, I decided to cut the pattern at a size 38 through the hip area and a size 36 for the top. This worked out fairly well; a little experimenting on the hip curves was needed. I ended up with about a 42 ease. I did select to added an additional 5/8 inch to the skirt sides as well. I wanted to make sure I had enough seam allowance to be able to make alterations, as I tend to gain weight through this region. I also shorten the length of the dress to hit above the knee, just to save some fabric.

Selecting the fabric was a bit of a challenge for me. I kept going back and forth between ordering a gray twill similar to the Burda version or use the red wool that I had on hand. Well, as you can see I used the red wool and am very happy with the selection. What I am not so happy about is the fabric I used for the lining. After wearing it for the evening, I discovered that it dyed me a lovely bright red. The charmeuse is not color set! I will have to think of something to do about that—more than likely replace the lining.

The pattern, as written, does not include a lining. I added it to alleviate some of the lumps and bumps that can be seen with thinner fabrics (aka the panty line). The lining pieces were relatively simple to draft. The cowl neck folds over to under the arm holes. I took the length from where the cowl lining fell to the bottom of the dress and cut the skirt portion using the side of the pattern that is not gathered. The back panels were lined by duplicating the pattern pieces.

As far as construction, I read over the “sewing course” directions (a supplement) provided in the English addition of Burda Style. They are far better than the standard directions and actually show a step-by-step approach with graphics. For the most part, I followed these directions, but I did have to deviate from them because of the lining. I also used twill tape to reinforce the zipper and elastic cut at two inches for the side gather.

If I sew this dress again, I would more than likely extend the cowl lining a bit. It hits me straight across the bust line and by lowering it an inch or two it would disappear.   Let me just say this, the picture above shows some stress in the bust; that was just how I was extending my arms, the bust lays flat when I am "normal". That aside, another change I would make would be to remove some of the ease in the sleeve cap. While the sleeve fit nicely into the arm hole, there is a bit of extra fabric. I was able to shape it a small amount (it is wool but has the synthetic fibers), and I added bra guards.

The dress is a wonderful addition to my closet. I wore it to New Year’s Eve dinner and it was delightfully comfortable. I think it is figure friendly too, since the gather camouflages the tummy. I have been thinking a summer version would be nice with cap sleeves or even sleeveless. All and all, I say BRAVO to this dress.